With rumours rife that Le Méridien is set to be levelled before the end of the year to make way for new developments, you might expect the staff to be a little bit tetchy. But, even with impending unemployment taken into consideration, nothing could have prepared us for the shocking treatment we received upon our latest visit to Captain’s Arms, the hotel’s charmingly rough English pub.
Having taken a seat in the bar’s sandy outdoor area (why they ever tore up that lush green lawn we’ll never know) we called a waiter over with the hope of ordering. Instead we were informed that we’d only be served food if we moved to a table closer to the pub’s entrance – some 10 feet away. There were no tables available, of course, so it would mean cramming in alongside the chain-smoking regulars. After requesting a word with the manager and explaining that we’d be staying put, thankyouverymuch, we were eventually allowed to order, a good 40 minutes after first taking our seat.
It’s a shame, really, because as much as we’d love to say otherwise, Captain’s is still the home of some of the finest pub food in the city, offering better tasting, better value grub than the likes of Heroes and PJ O’Reilly’s. Nothing’s particularly modern or mould-challenging (vegetarian? Hope you like cheese), but with classic dishes handled so well, you’d be foolhardy to criticise the chef’s lack of imagination.
The vegetable samosas, for example, are low on grease and bursting with fresh-tasting veg, making for a great accompaniment to your favourite frosty brew. The fish ’n’ chips, meanwhile is authentic enough to raise homesick Brits to their feet and have them belting out God Save the Queen, if only they weren’t so busy gorging on the meaty, lightly battered cod. The pizzas aren’t half bad either – just as long as you prefer a flaccid, American-style slice over the crispy authenticity of an Italian ristorante.
With its days apparently numbered, our advice is make the most of this under-appreciated gem while you still can. Just be prepared to fight for your right to feed.
The bill (for two)
Vegetable samosas Dhs38
Fish ’n’ chips Dhs59
BBQ chicken pizza Dhs52
Total (excluding service) Dhs149
