So, what are they?
As Jonathan Swift once said, ‘He was a bold man who first ate an oyster.’ They don’t look like food, after all – more pointy rocks that hang out on the seabed, blowing bubbles and getting on the nerves of swimmers. Even so, mankind has been guzzling these freaky bivalve molluscs for yonks, granting them a reputation so grand that no high-class function is complete without them. There are around 50 varieties lurking in the Earth’s waters, but only a few are widely farmed and eaten, with Kumamoto, Pacific and Olympia oysters most commonly used in modern cooking. Though they display subtle differences in flavour and texture, all are extremely nutritious, offering a good source of iron, calcium, zinc (the testosterone-triggering mineral that gives oysters their reputation as an aphrodisiac) and selenium, with most of this good stuff retained by simply shucking the little guys and knocking them back whole. Raw. Alive. Don’t panic, though – since oysters have no central nervous system, animal rights groups generally agree that it’s okay to eat them. Feeling intimidated? Allow Anja van Zyl, head chef at TOAD Award-winning seafood restaurant Finz, to put you straight.
Okay, but how do you eat them?
What are the differences between various types of oysters?
You get them in different shapes – some of them have a flat top, others a balloon-shaped bottom. The flavour will also vary a little, depending on the water they live in and the type of plankton they feed on.
What’s the best way to prepare oysters for eating?
If you’re not having them raw, the classic dish is Rockefeller oysters, which comes from the States. They’re basically just oysters on the half shell topped with creamy spinach and glazed with some hollandaise. But these days there’s so much you can do with them: you can get them smoked, pickled, baked, stewed and so on.
How can I tell if my oysters are fresh?
They should be closed and they should feel heavy. And when you open them up, there should be lots of water inside. If it’s open, it’s a no-go – that means it has died. When it’s served, you should be able to smell the sea and it should be nice and wet, sort of slippery. That’s the main thing to look out for.
Is there any particular etiquette to follow when eating them raw?
It’s basically just a case of chucking them back. Some people like to chew, but others aren’t used to it. It’s fine to give it one little chew, so that sea flavour explodes, but most of the time it’s just a case of giving a bit of lemon juice, a dash of Tabasco if you’re up to it and then swallowing away.
Sold. Now where can I try them?
Bord Eau: Sophistication is at the heart of everything the Shangri-La’s classically French restaurant does, with its seafood dishes revered as some of the finest in town. For his oysters, the chef forgoes traditional toppings and instead laces his half- dozen-on-the-half-shell with vanilla, chopped mango, apple and black pepper. And if you can sink a few of those while gazing across Maqtaa Creek without falling in love, chances are your heart’s made of stone.
Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, Bain Al Jessrain (02 509 8888).
CuiScene: You’re probably used to seeing sushi and lobster tail amid your Friday brunch spread, but, given their value and the fact that the punters’ eyes are often bigger than their stomachs, fresh oysters are far harder to come by. Even less common are those that are actually any good, which is one of the things that sets CuiScene apart from the rest. Get there early to check them out (once they’re gone, they’re gone) – you’ll find them surrounded by artsy ice sculptures at the front of the restaurant.
Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Bain Al Jessrain (02 654 3333).
Finz: This über-romantic seafood joint at Beach Rotana tops its French fine de claire oysters with beetroot vinaigrette. For those who prefer their shellfish cooked, you’ll also find a unique take on the classic oysters Rockefeller, glazed in hollandaise and served with creamy leeks. Also, look out for their special oyster promotion at the end of October, when they’ll be shipping in seven different varieties of the shell-clad critters from Holland, France, the Pacific and beyond.
Beach Rotana, Tourist Club Area (02 697 9000).
