Having just touched down in my fourth country in two days – bouncing straight from Australia to Thailand via Abu Dhabi and Doha in only a matter of hours – I am tired. Bone tired. What at first seemed like an excellent chance to do some showing off to friends, family and Twitter followers about my fabulous jet-setting lifestyle (a wedding in Melbourne, followed by a couple of hours in Abu Dhabi after a brief pause in Doha, then straight on to shopping in Thailand), is losing its shine due to a desperate need for a shower and a 14-hour nap.
But once I am released from the airport, it’s hard to stay grumpy for long. I am soon in the back of a car, sipping ice water and zipping through traffic while my driver points out landmarks and complains about rush hour (the zipping grinds to a slow crawl after about 10 minutes on the road). I shake off my exhaustion just enough to gawp at the scenery.
Think Thailand, and you’ll invariably picture beautiful beaches, elephants and shrines – pretty much what my brother was experiencing, in fact, on honeymoon in Koh Samui (at least according to the Facebook photos). But a city break is a very different experience.
The city
On the surface, Bangkok is a city like any other – jagged, towering skyscrapers, busy roads, honking horns and mountains of concrete and steel. But as with all cities it has its own idiosyncrasies. As we get closer to the centre, the first thing that strikes me is how green the place is – grass, trees and plant life scramble for space amid the hotels and apartment blocks, making Bangkok seem as though it has been plonked down in the middle of a jungle, and, as if that weren’t enough greenery, every street corner is crammed with tiny stalls selling dried ratchapruek – it seems the national flower is taken very seriously here. Arriving from dusty Abu Dhabi where everything is a varying shade of sandy yellow, it’s dazzling. And, as I have also planned my stay smack bang in the middle of the wettest season, when night falls and the rains come the smell of vegetation is almost overpowering. By day, however, the smell of the city is that of sweet barbecued meat and spices, and following your nose is likely to land you at one of the many street stalls serving up steaming piles of noodles to hungry locals and the odd nervous-looking tourist. Clustered on practically every street side, the majority are unsteady affairs comprising a central cart piled high with fresh meat and vegetables, manned by a lone cook and surrounded by packed chairs and tables hanging off kerbs and jutting into the road inches from passing tuk tuks, but if you’re willing to brave it, you’ll get some of the tastiest Thai food a handful of baht can buy.
The stay
I am staying at the Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel in Chidlom. This brand new five-star is a glossy testament to all things indulgent, and, as I like my stays luxurious, it seems I’ve come to the right place. Sure, Thailand has always stuck in my mind as a haven for backpackers who are slumming it and attempting to find themselves. For my first night in the city, the most I’m hoping to find is good food and a soft bed – and Renaissance doesn’t disappoint. The theme is modern contemporary Thailand, with delicate floral designs running throughout, based on the country’s national flower. Its award-winning Chinese restaurant, Fei Ya, specialises in lychee wood-roasted duck, and the staff go out of their way to make me feel welcome. Oh, and if that’s not enough extravagance for you, in the lobby there’s a car elevator. That’s right, an elevator for your car. In the lobby. Don’t get too excited, though, I’m told it’s only for fancy displays and parties in the ballroom above (I believe a Lamborghini was the last to use it). So if you have fantasies about sharing a suite with your Ford Escort, it’s just not going to happen. If you’re more interested in facials than Ferraris, take a trip upstairs to the pool and Quan Spa, where you can enjoy luxurious treatments while gazing out over stunning city views.
The shopping
It might seem silly to leave the UAE and trek all the way to Thailand just to hit the mall – Abu Dhabi has its fair share, and I believe many of Dubai’s have swallowed unsuspecting tourists whole. But these are nothing compared with the eight-storey leviathan that is CentralWorld (and its slightly smaller sister Central Chidlom), which encompass everything from high street classics to top end designers, a whole floor dedicated to home ware and another to the food court, with spas and boutiques dotted in between. I am grateful to discover a Thai foot massage is a mere 300 baht (Dhs36)for one hour – and is probably the only thing that helps me survive the trek from shop to shop. What really makes the malls special, however, is the wealth of Thai designer boutiques. Among others, you’ll find Disaya, Munchu’s, Senada, Painkiller, Vickteerut and Olanor in the Thai Designer Zone – think luxurious silks, cute patterns and twee, cutesy style at one end of the spectrum; classic cuts, muted tones and understated pieces at the other. If you’re interested in fashion, you’ll never want to leave.
If you’re in the market for souvenirs rather than style, you can pick up fine silks from Jim Thompson or luxurious spa products and scented oils from Vuudh or Harnn. If you get hungry along the way, try the food court – the emphasis is on Chinese, Thai and Japanese cuisine, and the food is really rather excellent (and phenomenally cheap) – according to my Thai guide, ‘It’s like street food, only a lot of tourists prefer to eat here because there’s no risk of, you know, sickness.’ Encouraging words, and I can vouch for the fact that the food is fiery, tangy and authentic, and comes with no unpleasant side effects.
The sights
If culture is more your thing, there are plenty of sights to satisfy. The Grand Palace is a morning out in itself – I manage to tear myself away from the mall long enough to wander this shining bastion of all things Thai – intricately carved and colourful statues stand domineering guard near the Temple of the Emerald Buddah (a must-visit, but it’s worth noting a strict dress code applies), while every inch of the grounds seems to have been gilded, and every corner reveals some new statue, carving or piece of artwork to be gazed and pointed at. When you’ve had enough of temples and gold, take a tuk tuk ride to Chinatown for some touristy knick-knacks, or, if you want to combine some real Thai silk with real Thai tailoring, there are plenty of small stores that will cater to your needs. Try RAM Fashion (+66 2 282 0543), which will whip you up a made-to-measure piece of clothing in only a few hours. A Thai silk skirt will set you back around Dhs200, and they’ll even deliver it to your hotel.
Need to know
Getting there
Qatar Airways flies to Bangkok via Doha for Dhs1,870. Alternatively, fly direct with Etihad Airways from Dhs3,100.
www.qatarairways.com; www.etihadairways.com.
Where to stay
Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel: This plush new hotel is right in the centre of the shopping district, with many of the major malls within easy walking distance. Around 150 baht (Dhs18) will get you a cab ride to the main sights, such as Chinatown, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the Grand Palace. The rooms are modern and plush, there is a luxurious spa and it was even named one of the top 10 trendiest hotels by travel webisite tripadvsior.com.
Prices start from around Dhs650 per night. www.renaissancebangkok.com (+66 2 125 5000).
