On the water
Dragon Boating: Paddles up! Ready… Go! And we’re away. Dragon boats are heavy; add 20 people and it feels pretty tough to start. Every move seems contrary to your natural instinct. Sit up tall. Reach. Arms straight. Reach some more. It’s surprisingly unlike kayaking or canoeing but, once you reach a high pace and your timing is in sync, you get a great surge, the adrenaline kicks in and, suddenly, it’s fun! Dragon boat training is held regularly around the capital and there are competitive races for the really keen. The camaraderie is great, which means you don’t mind the aching arm and shoulder muscles the following day.
For membership prices and info on getting involved in dragon boating, call Jason Mackenzie (050 763 4008).
Fishing: Greg Heinricks of Ara-bian Divers & Sportfishing Charters has been cruising the waters around Abu Dhabi and Lulu Island for 25 years. Prey is anything from sailfish to shark using multi-hooked lines and giant rods; bait is a stinking mass of semi-frozen fish, sunk with stones to attract predators. Both relaxing and exhilarating – especially if you manage to snare a hefty catch for supper – successful fishing is primarily down to (calculated) luck. Still, while you’re waiting for a ‘bite’ there’s plenty of time to slap on the sun block for a spot of bathing.
Arabian Divers & Sportfishing Charters (050 614 6931) offer full-day (eight-hour) fishing charters for Dhs3,700 and half-day (four-hour) for Dhs2,700. Five people max, equipment hire included.
Jet Skiing: Jet skiing is currently regulated across the UAE so it isn’t as widely available as you might think. Super Jets, based in Abu Dhabi, does however rent jet skis by the hour, so you can go out on your own or, perhaps more sensibly, cling to the back of a professional. Careen along the corniche at super speed – it’s like a fairground ride, only potentially fatal, and takes a great deal of skill from the driver. Particularly exhilarating are the 180˚ turns where, trust us, you will get wet.
Dhs150 per hour, contact Sahar on 050 699 9443.
Kayaking: Whether exploring the mangroves or fishing for your supper, kayaking is an easy-to-learn, low-impact sport that anyone can master. Take it easy on a sight-seeing kayak through the mangroves – a must for wildlife-starved denizens of the UAE – or get involved in a bit of trawling. The local kingfish community may be down a member, but at least you’ll feast well for a night. Fishing trips and Mangrove Tours with . Noukhada Adventure Company arranges kayaking trips into the mangroves as well as jaunts to nearby islands.Visit noukhada.ae or contact (050 721 8928).
Motorboating: Unless you own your own, it’s not terribly easy to get out in a motorboat. The best option – and by far the most hair-raising – is with Yellow Boats, a relatively new venture that launches from Marina Mall and whips you along a whacky route seemingly scribbled down by a boss-eyed child. The company has four distinct tours that take in the usual sites, but we recommend the 30-minute thrill ride (adults, Dhs100; kids Dhs75; family, Dhs300) that guarantees a soaking as well as an elevated heart rate.
To book call 800 4043 (theyellowboats.com).
Sailing: Kestrels, lasers, sunfish and toppers: words that cause palpitations among men and women of a certain disposition. Abu Dhabi, with its myriad islands, is a great spot for dinghy sailing. The sport is a great one for small groups and shady loners alike and the sense of freedom as you skip across the waves is as rewarding and relaxing as any luxury spa treatment. Rigging any of the smaller vessels is a simple procedure and getting them tacking and jibing is considerably easier than riding a bike.
Call Abu Dhabi Sailing Club for cost and schedule details (02 673 1111). Elsewhere the Abu Dhabi International Sailing School (02 681 3446) provide sailing lessons for both kids and adults from Dhs100-175 each.
Skimboarding: If you’re looking for a less extreme sport to whet your appetite, skimboarding may be just your ticket. It’s like surfboarding, apart from you start on the beach and ‘skim’ the surf, rather than ride big waves (which are hard to come by here). But the best news is, Abu Dhabi Skimboarders do it for free. The small social group meets at the old public beach whenever the wind is right and usually has a spare board on hand for a venturing newbie. Their Facebook group ‘Abu Dhabi Skimboarders’ has a self-checking weather and wave chart which sends out messages so they know when to have the next gathering.
Contact Duard (050 419 9638).
Stand-up Paddle surfing: Dubai’s latest ocean trend is finally heading to Abu Dhabi. Get a fish-eye’s glimpse of the capital’s coastline by hopping up on these 12-foot surf boards and paddling your way out to sea. You might take a few dunks in the Gulf before you get the hang of it but, by the end of the lesson, you’ll be gliding like a water geisha.
90 minutes cost Dhs150. Contact carl@surfschooluae.com.
Surf-Skiing: Surf-skiing is essentially a form of kayaking, but as far removed from its primitive cousin as you can get. The difference is pretty much that between a 4×4 and a sports car. The sleek surf skis are longer, narrower and infinitely more finicky than the average kayak. The paddler (when not falling out) sits atop an exposed cockpit, steering the boat with a foot-operated rudder. They are thin, fast and lend themselves well to endurance racing. Surf-skiing is undoubtedly a sport for the dedicated: a beginners kayak will set you back about Dhs5,000; a professional one costs up to Dhs16,000.
Lessons at ADIMCS, opposite Marina Mall, Dhs350 for three lessons if you have your own equipment, Dhs450, if not. www.adow.ae.
White Water Rafting: Will they or won’t they? As of April last year, Mr Joe Ong of Tamouh development company was proudly claiming that a white water rafting circuit snaking down the side of Jebel Hafeet mountain in Al Ain would be the ‘eighth wonder of the world’. The attraction would run next to a 5.8km ski slope, and the whole thing would be 100 per cent environmentally friendly. At the time of writing, Mr Ong was unavailable to comment on the project, and the rumour mill seemed to have gone quiet. We can’t decide whether we’re relieved or disappointed.
Windsurfing: Windsurfing is a good choice for those more into a physical and mental challenge than an adrenalin quick-fix. Having been introduced to the gadgetry, the instructor shows you how to get the thing (essentially a big surfboard with a sail attached to it) going. When it’s your turn, it can be a bit overwhelming – he’ll bombard you with instructions as though he’s a mean-spirited driving instructor. Like all challenges, however, this just makes it more rewarding when you nail it.
Hiltonia Beach Club (02 692 4205). One 50-minute session costs Dhs160; five lessons Dhs700.
Yachting: Captain Berend Lens van Rijn is a charismatic giant of a man and organiser of the monthly yacht races that take place around Lulu Island. For the amateur joining a ready-made race team, there is as much or as little to do as you want; each crewmember is called upon to help out here and there – tug on this rope, pull that in, swing this, and so forth. It’s a great experience (how many people actually get to be in a yacht race?) and one which offers a great sense of achievement at the finish line. The race takes place on the first Saturday of every month. Places cost Dhs300 and are limited.
Contact Captain Berend Lens van Rijn on 050 661 2176 to find out more.
In the water
Aqua Aerobics: Once solely favoured by sprightly senior citizens and the flowery capped brigade, aqua aerobics has recently enjoyed a slightly hipper status: the fitness-savvy have decided the pool can be cool. With greater toning potential than standard aerobics due to the fact that water has 12 times the resistance of air, working two muscle groups as opposed to just one, working out in the water definitely has its benefits. Overly gentle aqua classes won’t cut the mustard, though.
Classes, Dhs35 (members) and Dhs70 (non-members) for one hour, Hiltonia Beach Club, opposite Hilton Abu Dhabi (02 692 4205).
Snorkelling: Easier (and less strenuous) than scuba diving, snorkelling is a great way to see the underwater world. Bobbing about on the surface of the water looking like an undignified floating penguin has its perks: take a peek at fish in all the colours of the rainbow, sea urchins, coral and even the odd shipwreck. Buy yourself a snorkel and some fins and you can pretty much go wherever you please.
If you want expert advice, however, try the Sheraton Hotel (02 697 0272) or Desert Islands Resort & Spa, Sir Bani Yas Island, which offers guided snorkeling expeditions and boat trips. (02 801 5400; desertislands.anantara.com).
Swimming Lengths: It’s not easy to do laps in the hotel pools. Either they’re designed for leisure or they’re full of floating children. Unfortunately, sports pools are limited across Abu Dhabi city, but we were able to track down two alternative options open to the general public. Al Jazeera Stadium has a lane swimming pool (complete with audio system and underwater cameras no less) open to the public (one day pass, Dhs40 and Dhs300 for one month unlimited access). Or perfect your flipturn in the Olympic-size pool at the Armed Forces Officers’ Club (Dhs100 per adult per day – ladies day every Sunday and Wednesday).
Triathlon: It requires a special kind of madness to get involved with triathlon or it’s clinically insane cousin, Ironman, but Abu Dhabi is doing its best to become synonymous with the sport (see p119). At a more grassroutes level, The Abu Dhabi Tri Club do triathlon-level swim training down at Ras Al Akbar, near the old Ladies’ Club (though not restricted to ladies). They have a 1.5km loop for wimps (ahem), and a longer loop of 2.4km that brings the Ironmembers around the back of Emirates Palace.
The swim takes place on Saturday mornings from 7am. Alternatively, there’s a gentler 800m in the waters near Mangrove Village, gathering at Mangrove Village Gym, Mon, 6pm. Contact Russ Fraser on 050 445 0964, or visit abudhabitriclub.org.
Under the water
Freediving: To anyone unfamiliar with the Luc Besson’s 1988 paean to freediving, he basically introduced the world to a sport that had, until then, remained under the radar of all but the most passionate divers, lending it an air of Gallic mystery and a splash of spirituality in the process. First up is constant weight apnea, where the freediver swims down as far as they can and returns in one breath; then variable weight apnea, where you go down with a weight and swim back up; and finally, no limits, where divers are lowered on a sled to remarkable depths (the record is 213m) and return via an inflatable bag before running out of oxygen. It’s a mystical sport – part diving, part yoga, part meditation, and part survival – that won’t suit everyone, but it certainly generates those happy ‘at one with water’ feelings.
Classes are held at Mangrove Village, costing from Dhs2,200 to Dhs3,300 for AIDA training. Visit freedivinguae.com or email contactus@freedivinguae.com.
Scuba Diving: Before signing up to the Padi open water diver course, we spoke to a few experienced friends who gave mixed reports. Some had trouble with their ears (one in particular told us of her ‘ear bleed’ and subsequent temporary loss of hearing following her first dive), some with their breathing, and others with the general sense of claustrophobia. Altogether it would be fair to say we felt a little apprehensive about the whole thing.
The first day of the five-day crash course was spent filling out various forms (one of which served to exonerate the Ocean Diving Centre from any legal responsibility in the case of untimely death – standard practice but nonetheless scary), reading textbook material while watching the corresponding DVD before finally fitting in a few hours of pool practice. We were issued with wetsuit, weights, tank, BCD (buoyancy control device) and breathing apparatus while being talked through the basics.
Our instructor, Padi-certified Jeff Catanjal, was extremely patient throughout the course and, during those early practice sessions, the learning method was very much based on observation and imitation. Skills, such as how to reclaim your regulator if it comes out of your mouth, navigating using a compass and ‘buddy breathing’ were taught step by step in the safety of the hotel pool. Our first open dive was tough – sore ears and practically zero visibility due to thick layers of silt and sediment filling the shoreline. At first we had a little trouble equalizing (popping our ears to relieve the pressure) but after ascending slightly before slowly descending again, bit by bit, we sorted it out.
The thing that struck us most is how dissimilar it is to swimming. Rather than paddling with your arms, little kicks of the legs are used for propulsion. A great part of the skill is in breathing effectively; too much inhalation and you burn through your air more swiftly and have to resurface early. Curiously, breathing is also used for manoeuvring: a deep breath fills your lungs with air causing you to rise, a sharp exhalation and you sink down towards the bottom.
Yes, we found it a challenge: learning to flood and clear the mask underwater without panicking and snorting in instead of out almost had us defeated. Whereas maintaining buoyancy, breathing and swimming while weighted in full scuba kit came surprisingly naturally. It felt like a curious cross between flying, meditating and going to the most colourful museum in the world. After our fourth and final dive in open water we were absolutely hooked.
Ocean Diving Centre at the Beach Rotana Hotel (02 644 1696; oceandivecenter.com) runs the Padi open water diver course, Dhs2,200. Speciality courses, including wreck diver, underwater videographer and multilevel diver are also available. Elsewhere, courses are available at Arabian Divers & Sportfishing Charters (050 614 6931) and Al Boom, on the border with Dubai (04 342 2993).
Watery walks
Time Out Abu Dhabi’s favourite waterside strolls.
Heritage Village Beach: Go through the main gate at Heritage Village, turn left and head towards the garden at the far end. As you pass by the rope swing in the large tree, look to your right. You’ll find a path leading down to a pristine beach you can happily take a stroll along.
Bain Al Jesrain: Take the bridge from Khaleej Al Arabi Street towards Sheikh Shakhboot Benbuti Mosque, turning left at the first roundabout. The scruffy end of Maqtaa Creek is usually alive with keen amateur fishermen, and the stretch leading up to the Shangri-La is popular with the local boaters.
Souk Qaryat Al Beri: From the entrance, head downstairs and turn right at Ushna and keep going. The stroll from the Souk to Traders Hotel is a fountain-splashed delight, with jetties reaching out into the creek and yachts moored at their sides. The stretch ends at a fancy children’s playground, making this the walk of choice for young families.
Mina Port: The old port’s days are numbered, and it’s only a matter of months before the whole thing is scattered across the city. Grab the chance while you can. Park at the Iranian souk and walk left past the garden souk to watch the really big ships roll in.
The Corniche: How could we not? Seven kilometres of strollable loveliness; it’s not only a great place to for a bit of surf, it’s also the best place to see the people of Abu Dhabi at play.
Waterskiing
Like Bambi on ice (if Bambi’s legs were broken) – that’s the only way to describe our first attempt at waterskiing. Yes, it looks fairly easy to the uninitiated but bobbing in the sea, knees up, feet in skis in preparation for lift-off, it suddenly didn’t seem quite so simple. We were told the hardest part would be standing up – unfortunately for us that was the only part. After 40 minutes (in temperatures getting chillier by the minute), inadvertently swallowing a few pints of saltwater and countless attempts at the ‘stand-up’, we called it a day. If it were a few degrees warmer we’d have stuck it out long enough to master the initial technique but, alas, our sense of balance (and pride) had taken too much of a battering to go on.
Tips from the pros
Stretch out
Before and after you go on the water, have a good stretch, concentrating on your back, arms and legs.
Get up slowly
By far the most common beginner error is trying to stand up too quickly when the rope starts to pull. Start in the water with your knees bent right up to your chest, arms straight and outside your knees. As the rope starts to pull, keep your arms straight and slowly start to stand. Keep your shoulders level and the rope between your skis.
Stand upright
Once you’re up, your head should be directly over your feet. It’s a bit like rollerskating: if you lean too far back, you’ll immediately fall over backwards; too far forward, and you’ll go flat on your face.
Eyes up
Always look ahead, either at the horizon or at the boat; looking down at your skis will unbalance you. If you feel yourself losing balance and falling, let go of the rope – don’t hold on and get dragged along.
Dhs170 for 45 minutes at The Sheraton Hotel (02 677 3333; sheraton.com/abudhabi). Also available at Beach Rotana Hotel (02 697 9302) and Hiltonia Beach Club (02 692 4205)
Kitesurfing
Jakub, Abu Dhabi’s kitesurf king, is a buff, brusque Polish fellow who clearly cares nothing for small talk, leaving us to babble with increasing nervousness as he unravels a massive 18ft kite. We’re a bit nervous, having spent the evening prior with supportive friends who took it upon themselves to share all their watersport horror stories. We can’t help but notice that this supposed ‘kite’ flickers and leaps at the slightest hint of a breeze, looking more like a bucking bronco than the flimsy rainbow triangles we fondly remember from childhood.
The wind buffets about us in a frenzy while Jakub marches Time Out towards the shore. We may be imagining things, but he’s got the precision of a Sergeant shipping his marines to the front line. Without a hint of a smile, he starts scrawling directives of wind direction in the sand, lest we get dragged out to sea never to be seen again. Just when we think we’ve unwittingly arrived at our own execution, Jakub imparts some reassuring news. ‘Oh no, you aren’t actually getting on a board today. You’d break your leg!’
Phew. Crisis averted, we start to relax, happily tugging on the harness laid out in the sand. Within seconds of the kite soaring airborne, we find ourselves unceremoniously lifted a few feet into the air and flung in the direction of the ocean. ‘Let go! Let go! Let go!’ hollers Jakub frantically. We do, and splash down into the water as the kite relaxes its furor and flutters happily back to earth. If we didn’t know any better, we’d say it was quite pleased with itself.
At this point, we should’ve been wetting our pants in fear, but we can’t help but giggle as a rush of exhilaration floods our veins. Those few seconds airborne are the closest we’ve been to flying. We’re astounded by the kite force; it must be thrilling to soar over the surface of the ocean with that wind power harnessed at the tips of your fingers.
Although kite surfing isn’t recommended for the faint of heart, adrenaline junkies should definitely apply. Our hearts are still thumping with the thrill of it, and we never even made it on a board.
Kitesurfing costs Dhs300 per hour. Call Jakub on 050 562 6383.
(Don’t) Swim with Dolphins
You can thank Flipper for the cute dolphin thing, though it’s unlikely the bottle-nosed community will share your enthusiasm. As recent propaganda movie The Cove demonstrated, these intelligent animals suffer stress as easily as we do, and being forced into humiliating and repetitive displays can result in depression and illness. Thankfully, the dolphins regularly seen in the Saadiyat channel and swimming off the coast of Sir Bani Yas Island are not in captivity, and frolicking alongside your boat as you snap pics is their choice entirely. This doesn’t mean you ought to leap in and ride them like prissy sea ponies, of course. A dolphin that feels threatened will attack, and those cutesy noses are as soft as truncheons when swung deftly at a hug-seeking ribcage.
