In its previous incarnation as Chang’an, Xi’an was the first imperial capital of China. Vestiges of this ancient world remain dotted in and around the city, ensuring its place on tourists’ ‘must-see’ lists. April is a good time to visit, with the city emerging from the bleak winter into a beautiful, temperate spring.
The warriors
The first emperor of China, Qin Shihuang (221-210 BC), envisioned an army of protectors in his afterlife and commanded that thousands of terracotta soldiers be buried with him upon his death. Thanks to their chance rediscovery 38 years ago by a group of local farmers digging a well, we mortals can now ogle them too. Located 23 miles outside the city centre, the Museum of Terracotta Warriors actually consists of three pits. The first is arguably the most impressive: rows of fully excavated, life-sized soldiers and horses stand, as they would have when they were first buried more than 2,000 years ago, in trenches below your feet. Pit two contains the archers, generals and chariots, while pit three is thought to be the command centre.
Last year, a further two smaller pits were opened to the public. Located next to the burial mound of the emperor, these pits contain terracotta officials and topless male performers. The same ticket that gets you into the Museum of Terracotta Warriors allows you access to the burial mound area and it’s a free, ten-minute shuttle bus ride away.
Binmayong (+86 29 8139 9047). Open daily 8.30am-5pm. 150RMB (Dhs88). Buses 306 and 307 leave frequently from Xi’an train station.
Almost as fascinating – but with fewer visitors – is the Tomb of Jingdi, an emperor of the Han Dynasty, which succeeded the Qin Dynasty. Glass walls and floors allow you a closer look at the excavation site, although the figures here are only doll-size. Hanyangling (+86 29 8603 1470). Open daily 8.30am-5.30pm. 90RMB (Dhs53). Buses leave hourly from Xi’an library.
Other attractions
Xi’an is much more than just a staging post for the ancient tombs. For hundreds of years the illustrious Silk Road brought to it a mix of cultures and even today the city still has a sizeable Muslim community. The Great Mosque here is one of China’s largest and wandering through the gardens (non-Muslims are not allowed inside the prayer hall) you’ll spot many Islamic influences in the architecture. Daqingzhensi. Open daily 8am-7pm. 25RMB (Dhs15).
Despite the modern metropolis that has grown up around it, Xi’an has managed to retain its old city wall. It’s wide enough that you can rent a bike and pedal along the top. For the best panorama of the city, however, climb Big Wild Goose Pagoda, a 64m-tall structure which originated in the seventh century Tang Dynasty period. If you stick around here after dark, the fountain and light show (from 8.30pm) in front of the pagoda can be fun and at the back you’ll find dozens of locals dancing the night away. Dayanta. Open daily 8am-6.30pm. Entry 50RMB (Dhs30), 30RMB (Dhs18) to climb the tower.
Close to the Museum of Terracotta Warriors is Huaqing Palace, the hot-spring frolicking grounds of the great Tang Dynasty beauty, Concubine Yang. Although the reconstructed buildings hold little charm, the lakes and the green backdrop of Mount Li make a pleasant strolling ground after a trip to see the warriors, and you too can soak in the hot springs on-site at the basic but functional baths (from 30RMB (Dhs18) per person for 40 minutes). Huaqing Chi. Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. 110RMB (Dhs65).
Where to eat and drink
Head to Muslim Street to gorge on snacks such as grilled quail eggs, rose petal glutinous rice cakes and persimmon cakes sizzling in hot oil. For a more filling option, go to Jia San (93 Muslim St; +86 29 8725 7507), famed for its guantang baozi (soup-filled bun). The challenge is to pick one up without tearing it, so you can suck out the soup.
Be sure also to taste Xi’an’s yangrou paomo (bread soaked in mutton soup), which is best-served in local joints off the main streets, such as Tie Lao Shi’s (85 Daxue Xi Xiang; +86 29 8721 9193).
Elsewhere, Fubaoge teahouse offers an authentic tea-drinking experience coupled with Xi’an’s own brand of crosstalk comedy (66 Fudexiang; +86 29 8721 1031; performances 8pm-10.30pm Wed-Sun).
Where to stay
Boasting an indoor swimming pool, as well as its own museum dedicated to ancient Chinese artefacts, The Westin Xi’an (starwoodhotels.com; doubles from 1,265RMB (Dhs734)) is close to the city centre (only a ten-minute walk from Big Goose Pagoda). Centrally located and reasonably priced, Huashang Mountain International Hotel (+86 29 6268 2222; doubles from 508RMB (Dhs297) has smart, modern rooms, including glass-walled bathrooms.
For the budget-conscious, Shu Yuan Youth Hostel (itisxian.com; dorm beds from 58RMB (Dhs34); doubles with private bathrooms from 180RMB (Dhs105)) is a courtyard conversion by the South Gate of the city walls.
Need to know
Getting there
Etihad flies to Xi’an Xianyang with one stopover in either Beijing Capital Airport or Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport Hong Kong for around Dhs8,895.
www.etihadairways.com.
