Rumours that Hakkasan restaurant would be arriving in the capital began circulating more than a year ago. That’s a long time to be left salivating. On May 31, however, the doors to the exclusive celeb magnet, currently doing a roaring trade in London and Miami, swung open to a select few, and the feasting began.
As you’ll see from our exclusive pictures, it’s a stunning-looking venue, lit in an icy blue, framed in the signature rustic wooden structures recognisable from its London counterpart. Access is currently via a teetering stepping stone causeway that the architect says will be replaced after Ramadan – a shame, as the current layout gives a real sense that you’re arriving somewhere totally unique. A 15m bar takes pride of place in the first of several large rooms, with a rippled lighting effect dancing across the back wall that puts one in mind of an exclusive spa. The dining area is laid out inside a kind of cage creation, suggesting a sense of privacy while – at the same time – allowing the bustling atmosphere to seep in. Abu Dhabi hasn’t yet seen anything like it.
Time Out dug into a nine-course sampling menu, highlights of which included a decadent champagne and codfish creation, and a venison dim sum so moreish it should be forbidden. Resigned to re-reviewing Hakkasan once the clamour has died down (the things we do for you people), we sat down with head chef Lee Kok Hua and his assistant Pang Pin Lee to discuss Michelin stars, David Beckham, and why Hakkasan is modern but definitely not fusion.
How do you class Hakkasan’s cuisine? Is it Cantonese?
Lee Kok Hua: Some is Cantonese; some is from Malaysia, Beijing, and a little is from Thailand…
So it’s fusion?
Pang Pin Lee: No! Not fusion! The base is classical Cantonese cuisine, then we mix up some Far Eastern and Chinese cuisine. We call it modern Chinese cuisine. It’s not fusion.
Righty ho, then. What did you have to consider when you put together the menu for Abu Dhabi?
PPL: We are new in Abu Dhabi, but our signature dishes are very important to Hakkasan. For example, our venison puff dim sum; our champagne codfish. But we have to adapt to this market, so we work with local ingredients, like the hammour and the blue shell crab.
You’re famously Michelin-starred in London. How do you think a Michelin-star restaurant differs from its competitors?
PPL: We don’t want to compare ourselves with other restaurants. Taste and consistency are very important for us. When we arrived here, we did our market research in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. We visited the Shang Palace (Shangri-La Hotel, Bain Al Jesrain), because they do classical Cantonese. But we can’t compare, because it’s a different approach. Lee Kok Hua says we aren’t going to compare with others. We’ll just bring out our Hakkasan philosophy.
But did you actually enjoy what Shang Palace does?
PPL: For the food? I’ve no comment. Some is very good; some is so-so. Maybe that’s because I’m a chef…
Hakkasan in London is known as a celebrity hideout. Have you served many well-known customers?
LKH: Sometimes the customers are very friendly. If they feel it’s a good meal, they come to the kitchen and say, ‘Thank you chef!’ It gives us energy to keep going. Very, very good [he later adds that he’d be more than happy for that to happen here, too]. I’ve cooked for Hong Kong stars such as Michelle Yeoh. Also David and Victoria Beckham…
The Beckhams? What did they think of your food?
PPL: Yeah, they liked it! They used to come, I think, once or twice a week.
So Beckham is your good friend?
LKH: (Laughs) No, we’re not close. But it’s very important that we have a good relationship with our guests. We want them to feel at home.
Hakkasan is now open to the general public, initially for dinner only (6pm-2am; last orders at midnight). Reservations can be made on 02 690 7999.
