As a western woman new to the city, I’d been told that baring my shoulders in public and wearing skirts above the knee is considered deeply offensive, and that I risk being fined for ignoring the rules. Since arriving, though, I’ve seen female flesh on show all over the place, as well as couples holding hands in the street, which I’d also been told was forbidden. What’s going on? Have the rules changed? Is this sort of thing fine in Abu Dhabi these days?
Although commonly misunderstood, the guidelines for western dress in public are actually very simple. While it’s not illegal to reveal your shoulders or knees in public, it is considered highly disrespectful to the local culture to dress immodestly. Those wandering around town in hotpants and a vest can thoroughly expect to receive disapproving looks (or worse) from the locals, while pushing the boundaries within malls and other public areas could well result in you being asked to leave by security guards. The only place you’ll get away with a little extra flesh is on the beach, where bikinis on women and shorts without a shirt (but, crucially, not the other way around) on men are deemed acceptable.
Rules also tend to be relaxed in areas where westerners congregate, so you needn’t worry about inadequate coverage if you’re spending the evening at a restaurant or bar, although we’d recommend keeping an extra layer handy for the journey there and back – not to mention the frequently Arctic air conditioning. The only areas where conservative clothing is a must are government buildings, where long sleeves and loose trousers or a full-length skirt are the best option. And, of course, don’t even think about going anywhere near a mosque in your painting-the-town-red wardrobe.
As for hand-holding, the etiquette is the same as it ever was – public displays of affection are considered taboo, but there’s no penalty in place (providing things don’t ‘escalate’, of course). We’ve all heard the stories of touchy-feely expats landing themselves behind bars for their alfresco exploits, but it’s important to note that these are extreme cases, and such behaviour would be frowned on in any society.
Overall, while the Government accepts that expats from different countries are going to have different cultural norms, you should never forget that, as a guest in an Islamic nation, your actions could potentially cause offence. As with so many things, discretion is key.
