Imagine being able to jump on a bike just as the sun rises, and take a long cross-country cycle in the cool fresh air, whizzing off-road over rocky terrain and passing green hills, catching glimpses of wild animals – oryx, gazelles and peacocks – as they dash off into the undergrowth when they hear you coming. Maybe in Kenya? Or South Africa perhaps? Actually, it’s all possible here in Abu Dhabi, on Sir Bani Yas Island.
The island is a man-made wildlife reserve, and was the pet project of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, who started his visionary ‘Greening of the Desert’ programme there in the late 1990s. He ordered millions of trees to be planted across the island, and brought thousands of animals to the site, including cheetahs, llama, giraffes and ostriches to create a fertile sanctuary in the middle of the desert.
The effect is simply staggering, and more than a little surreal when you consider how arid and barren the island must once have been. Possibly the most jaw-dropping feature is the ‘Green Mountain’, a huge hill of which every last millimetre is covered in foliage. As an answer to doubters who said the project wasn’t possible, Sheikh Zayed commissioned workers to cover the whole surface in greenery so he could demonstrate to the world exactly what could be achieved. So, although everything on the island has been cultivated by humans, and the delicate ecosystem managed with military precision by environmental specialists, you still feel as though you are in the lap of Mother Nature – it’s a peaceful, rugged wilderness with more than 15,000 free-roaming animals living there.
Tour operator Desert Islands Abu Dhabi offers plenty of sporting and outdoor pursuits to allow you to explore the island, including nature walks, archery, sailing and mountain biking, which we opted to try. The activities are included in the package if you book a room at the hotel, but should you not have time for a lengthy stay, you can buy them individually, with plenty of day-trippers hopping on the ferry to the island and taking part. As for the cycling, two routes are available – the blue route is not too strenuous, and follows the road around a lagoon before winding through some small, sandy wadi hills. The purple route is a little more advanced, starting off with some rough, steep climbs before levelling out. Up at dawn, our guide kitted us out with geared mountain bikes and helmets and we were out on the road by a bracing 7am. The ground was still damp from a very unusual downpour the night before, which meant pushing through the early paths of soggy sand and mud was quite a challenge. But, after 20 minutes or so of gruelling pedalling, the most difficult part was over, and we spent the remainder of the two hours blissfully coasting across the gentler, rolling hills. We took in panoramas of the sea, the rich colours of the muddy landscape, and spotted sand gazelles bounding around on the rocks. The smell of wet earth and rain was still lingering, which was a pleasant shock to the system after months spent in Abu Dhabi’s dusty, pollution-soaked urban environment.
Our guide had us back at our hotel in time for breakfast, with a satisfying 18km under our belts. Mountain biking is one of the best ways to explore Sir Bani Yas, as guides are happy for you to stop whenever you want to check out the animals, snap a picture or just take a break. It’s suitable for anyone who can cycle, and special carriages are available for under-fives to ride in, so if the stresses of city life are taking their toll, this really is an experience that shouldn’t be missed.
Dhs60, Mountain Biking. Available through Desert Islands Abu Dhabi, www.desertislands.com (02 801 8400)
