When this cool venue opened late last year we had the pleasure of sitting down to interview Marco Pierre White. As expected, the chef was every bit as outgoing, opinionated and passionate about food as we had hoped and there was one thing that stuck in the mind after the conversation ended that’s stuck with us since.
The chef told us that his newest restaurant was for everyone… Absolutely anyone.
It’s a versatile venue. In the evening the post-work crowd can enjoy a bite and a drink, on Fridays the big brunch crowd can let their hair down and on Thursday’s families can relax and start the weekend with some great food.
So, when we were looking for a weekend brunch that was family-friendly and wouldn’t mind some very young children coming along, Marco’s came to mind.
You may not be surprised to learn we’ve been turned away from a few venues in recent weeks as no children are allowed in some places. Thankfully plenty of places do allow little ones and Marco’s is on that list. In fact, they’re welcomed with open arms and that is a big deal for parents.
Not having to apologetically ask for a high chair or feel embarrassed that a child had the audacity to make a noise matters.
The staff could not be more accommodating on arrival and we quickly realise that families seated on almost every table have kids with them.
We instantly relax and settle in, which is exactly what you want from a Saturday brunch.
If you have visited Marco’s before you’ll know that the food is very good. The brunch offers a set menu delivered to the table, which works perfectly for the kind of cuisine on offer.
There’s a starters platter first, then you choose one main from a selection before a dessert platter rounds things off.
That all adds up to a lot of food, so it’s a good idea to come here hungry.
The starters include calamari, chicken wings, the American hot pizza, burrata salad and a Caesar salad. Everything is excellent, in particular the crispy buffalo wings, the fiery pizza and the wonderfully crisp and succulent calamari rings.
We order risotto and lasagne for mains and the truffle and mushroom risotto is a treat, with just the right amount of aromatic fungus. It has a perfect consistency with the wild mushrooms adding an earthy taste.
Lasagne can often be hit or miss, but here it’s a surefire smash, with rich bechemel sauce, succulent beef ragu and super-soft pasta. Like the risotto, it disappears with the help of a few slices of fresh sourdough bread.
By this point you’ll probably be filling up, so take a breather before the desserts arrive. They are six of them after, all.
The tiramisu, served in coffee cups, is a delight, as is the New Orleans dish Bananas Foster, with crunchy peanuts, caramel and ice cream. And can you ever go wrong with New York cheesecake? Not here you can’t.
If you can move after all of that, we salute you. The food is so good we can’t bear to see any of it go back to the kitchen (we also ask to take some leftovers away). It’s good quality, fuss-free with no pretence and no drama. It’s a real gem and good for pretty much everyone.
Dhs199 (soft drinks), Dhs299 (house beverages), Dhs299 (Italian bubbly). Sat noon-4pm. Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Khor Al Maqta (02 654 3333).
