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Brunch review: La Dolce Vita at Verso, Abu Dhabi

A relaxed weekend brunch with excellent food at Grand Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Residences Emirates Pearl

Italian’s really have it sussed when it comes to dining and enjoying great food. It’s not uncommon for families and friends to spend hours at the dinner table enjoying course after course, from antipasti and pasta to meats and cheeses, with breaks in-between.

It’s that leisurely, relaxed approach to the dining experience that Verso has captured with La Dolca Vita (which translates as ‘the good life’) brunch.

With the brunch you can also enjoy pool access so you can make your way to the table in your own time after enjoying a dip.

We pass on the pool this time, and instead make our way to the table ready for a feast.

One thing we’ve learned from all the brunches over the years is to never peak too early.

At Verso, as with many other brunches, plate after plate arrives at the table and if you clear the lot, you’ll never make the main courses, nevermind the desserts.

This one is split into sections. First comes antipasti and seafood, then it’s pasta to share, followed by the main courses and finally, dessert.

There is a lot of food, so we take our own advice and go slow, be conservative when ordering and play the long game, the Italian way, over a few hours.

The antipasti is a real treat, everything hits the spot. From wonderful cuts of beef charcuterie, parmesan chunks and bitter caper berries to the sharp balsamic onions, pillow-like focaccia and creamy mozzarella. It’s magnificent. A platter of fresh seafood also arrives and it’s delicious. Mussels and oysters are fresh and have a strong oceanic taste, while the wonderful lobster tails and prawns are perfectly succulent and disappear quickly.

If you’re like us, by this point you may be getting full.

We’re only one course down but there’s already been a whole load of food, however, after a breather, it’s on to the pasta course. We share crab linguine and it’s as good as it gets. There’s a lot of delicate crab meat alongside zingy tomato and a hum of garlic and chilli. It really is an excellent bowl of food.

Main courses are up next and we share one, though you can order one each.

The beef cheeks arrive at the table and we instantly fall in love. After a few mouthfuls it may well be the best we’ve eaten all year.

The beef is tender, the celeriac purée perfect and lightly charred broccoli a great side. This is a dish to come back to the restaurant for. It’s a genuine showstopper.

Our dessert is a simple bowl of gelato and it is just what’s needed.

Every single item of food impresses, service is attentive without overdoing it and the relaxed atmosphere is a winner. There are few better Italian brunches out there for friends, families or couples.
Dhs250 (soft drinks), Dhs340 (house beverages). Fri 12.30pm-4pm. Licensed. Grand Hyatt Hotel Abu Dhabi and Residences Emirates Pearl, Corniche West (02 510 1234).