One of Dubai’s best-loved regular pop-ups and home of the city’s greatest brisket, The Mattar Farm is a cult favourite with a mass following. And fans of the tastiest smoked meat in town are in for a treat, as it’s opening up Local Fire by The Mattar Farm in Time Out Market Dubai this year.
Founder and pitmaster Hattem Mattar explains why there’s no smoke without culinary fire.
How long have you been in Dubai?
Twenty-two years.
When did you set up Mattar Farm?
Officially, December 2017. Non-officially, 2005. We used to have barbecues that brought in friends, family, strangers… Eventually, people started calling to order. But it wasn’t even those people that attended, but people who’d heard from friends.
What are you most renowned for?
Brisket, pastrami… We added a feather in our cap when we started making wings at our events, because it’s just so simple. But I think barbecue is the most evocative cuisine in the world. You can smell it, like a block over. We literally are known for the way we smell.
What do people love most about you guys?
I think all of the cultures of the world have fire-based cuisine. People will stand in line, and be speaking a language I don’t understand, and I’ll be like “hey guys what’s going on?” and they’ll be like “Man, I can’t tell you how much this smells like Armenia”… Before you know it, we’ve got through 150 nationalities and everybody – even though it’s the same smell – says “this reminds me of home”. So people love us because we remind them of home.
What’s the most inventive dish in your book?
We made a whole camel once. That wasn’t inventive. But it was brave. Though it was inventive in that we cooked the entire camel as is. It took up our entire smoker real estate for two days.
What’s your secret weapon?
I remember everybody that comes to eat. I know their names. I know if we’ve shaken hands. I appreciate that there’s a value exchange.
Who are your culinary influences?
My mum. Bar none. That’s easy.
What’s the golden rule in your kitchen?
Don’t be stingy.
Time Out Market Dubai is opening in Souk Al Bahar this year, and if you want to find out more, including what other super-tasty eats there will be inside, click here.
