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Best young chef in Dubai

Award-winning chef Wesley Berghoff on life and cooking

As we count down the days to what will henceforth become an annual culinary-fest in the diary of every foodie in town, let’s pause and think – think of what winning the Abu Dhabi Young Chef of the Year 2012 award will mean for one hopeful chef. To get a better idea, we catch up with Wesley Berghoff, who won the Dubai Young Chef of the Year award earlier this year.

Hailing from South Africa, Wesley is chef de cuisine of Ossiano at Atlantis, The Palm. Previously, he held the same position at Seafire, the New York-style restaurant, also at Atlantis, which went on to win Best Steakhouse at the 2011 Time Out Dubai Restaurant Awards.

At what age did you decide you wanted to cook for a living; was it a ‘eureka’ moment or something that gradually crept up on you?
At about six or seven years old I knew I was going to be the world’s greatest tennis star. Then at about nine I knew I was going to be the biggest singing sensation the world had ever seen. But then at ten years old I saw my first cooking show on TV, it was with Keith Floyd, and decided there was nothing I would rather be doing than cooking, and I have never looked back since.

What do you think of the UAE food scene?
The UAE has a really strong food scene that I believe is always evolving to stay as up to date with the international scene as possible. And with so many young chefs and restaurants and hotels all trying to put their stamp on the culinary scene, this makes the UAE an exciting place for foodies everywhere.

Why did you enter the Dubai YCOY competition?
I like to challenge myself, and I had never taken part in a competition before, so I had to see if could do it.

We have heard a great deal about your slow-cooked and marinated salmon. Will you tell us the secret of its success?
Sure. Season the salmon with a bit of chilli, ginger and lime, and slowly poach it in a water bath until the salmon melts in your mouth like butter.

Thanks, we’re going to try that at home. What was it like on the big night?
I was nervous but not so much because of the event itself – all chefs work in high pressure environments – but rather I was worried about the fact that there were so many people, all focused on the contestants, filming and taking and photos and trying to have a chat with us. You see, our lack of social skills is why they put kitchens at the back of the house.

Really? That’s hard to believe chatting to you! But, did you have any crises on the night?
We did have one big issue with our deep fat fryers which refused to work, and we were running out of time before we had to serve our guests. Thanks to the quick thinking of my sous chef – who ran to a nearby takeaway, which will remain nameless due to possible legal implications – we managed to pull off the impossible. The moral of this story is, where there’s a will there’s a way.

Indeed. So after a long work day in the kitchen, do you cook when you get home or order takeout?
I love to cook but we all know food tastes better if someone else cooks for you, so my wife does all the cooking. I make coffee. As for takeout, it’s been a long time now since we had some – my wife won’t let me. I could kill for a burger or pizza. Even just a nibble.

Good for her – and we were about to ask you who wears the apron in your relationship.
My wife wears the pants, apron and chef’s hat in our relationship, and I would never say anything to contradict that – [aside] I love you, babe!

We heard you were promoted after the awards. How has winning Dubai YCOY affected your life and career?
It wasn’t really a promotion as such, more the fact that I had achieved what I wanted to in Seafire by winning the award and was looking for a new challenge. And the hotel thought I was the right man to take over from the late, great chef Santi Santamaria. The feeling is great and it’s made me hungry for more. Now I’m focusing on the next challenge.

Everyone probably asks you what your favourite food is, but we think that’s a silly question, so we won’t. What’s your least favourite food?
I did not get this big by not enjoying food, but I do have simple tastes. Like my mum and grandmother’s cooking for me is heaven. So I would have to say I dislike pretentious food that’s all frills and no substance.

We couldn’t agree more with you on that. Who’s your culinary hero?
To name but one chef would be impossible. Who I am as a chef today is from the inspiration and training of many. From Keith Floyd, who made me want to be a chef, to Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay, who made me strive to always be the best. Then there was Phil Carmichael and Jason Atherton who changed my outlook on food forever; the passion of Jamie Oliver, Albert Roux and Raymond Blanc; and all the chefs who spent the last ten years training me. I consider all of them to be my heroes.

What are your hopes and ambitions for the future?
To have my own restaurant where I can cook in until I’m grey and old and the youngsters have to kick me out. This is my end game, but my next goal is winning the Time Out Restaurant of Year award in 2013 – as well as the Seafood and Romantic categories. I’m just trying to keep myself busy.

Good luck with that and keep up the great cooking. What advice would you have for the Abu Dhabi YCOY contestants?
Don’t over complicate – real people want real food. Do what you know and do it well. They came to experience your personality on a plate, not something you got out of a molecular cook book. Put your heart and soul into your food and you will always win the hearts and souls of your guests.