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Where to live in Abu Dhabi

We find out where to live in Abu Dhabi. Here’s the inside on the emirate’s top neighbourhoods to try

Finding somewhere affordable to live in Abu Dhabi is an uneviable task, especially in these financially troubled times. However, sky-high rents now appear to be wavering as more property comes on the market, and the five per cent rent cap holds landlords in check. The city is also changing; spreading out onto neighbouring islands and reaching into the desert as its centre moves further towards the Maqta Bridge.

As prices beggar belief in the city, many expats are building strong communities in new developments off the island. But don’t just take our word for it. We spoke to the lawyers, the estate agents, and – most importantly – the inhabitants to compile the definitive Abu Dhabi location report.

Coast with the most

1 Al Bateen
What’s the area like? Large. Al Bateen practically stems the length of Al Khaleej Al Arabi Street, from Sheikh Zayed First to Saeed Bin Tahnoon. There are plenty of villas and townhouses, and on the whole it is largely a quiet, family area, with locals making up a large percentage of the population.

Amenities
The Al Bateen Mall is just a supermarket with a collection of cheap electrical goods and clothing upstairs, but it does the job. Those in the northern half tend to head for the Spinneys in Khalidaya. The Al Bateen Marina is another draw, with its sports club, restaurant and nightclub Waves being the only entertainment in the area.

Best for…
It’s typically not an expat area, but for those who want a taste of traditional Abu Dhabi and can afford it, it’s perfect.

Pros
The northern third is close to the Corniche, and it is largely a quiet peaceful suburb, complete with a number of schools. We also like the bike route which runs from 32nd street to Baynunah Street.

Cons
As usual, don’t count on a taxi penetrating the area. Some of the roads are also four to six lanes, and in a largely suburban area this makes little sense; it also tends to attract kids on motorbikes breezing through them at crazy speeds. Also, property tends not to come up that often, so finding somewhere here can be that little bit trickier.

Rent
Nothing to be had for less than Dhs400,000 for a three-bed, although one dodgy fellow offered us a studio for Dhs50,000. Very suspicious.

Expats’ choice

2 Khalidiya
What’s the area like? In a word, vibrant. Situated around Sheikh Zayed the First (Khalidiya Street), easy access is the key phrase, and people can be seen moving about on foot – photo-worthy in the UAE. The multinational population has grouped together into a thriving expat community, and people here talk fondly of lifelong friendships and ‘being in the same boat’ (presumably the QE2, given the astonishing prices). Accommodation is available in high-rise apartment blocks or in snazzy compounds such as Khalidiya Village.

Amenities
Khalidiya is awash with takeaways of all shapes and sizes, and most schools run buses to the area. Pride of place is Abela Supermarket, an establishment the expats would flounder without.

Best For…
Easy access to the central hub of the city.

Pros
Walk out onto the Corniche and catch the sea breeze; walk up to the major malls and catch the latest bargains; walk to Khalidiya Garden for a bit of park relaxation. If you’re happy on foot, you’re happy in Khalidiya.

Cons
Parking can be a nightmare, and cabs are like gold dust on a Thursday evening.

Rent
At the time of writing, two-beds could be bartered for Dhs170,000. More reputable agents are offering three-beds for Dhs400,000.

The future!

3 Khalifa City ‘A’

What’s the area like?
Peace and quiet seem to be high on the wish lists of people heading in this direction. Sure, the nightlife is non-existent; certainly, it feels a bit like the edge of the Empty Quarter; but as the future administrative capital of the UAE (come 2030), Khalifa City has a lot of promise. The villas that have already been completed are handsome properties, large and spacious, decked out in a variety of desert colours. Khalifa’s proximity to the airport and the Dubai highway also make it an attractive location for commuting workers.

Amenities
Not much as yet, but as with Mohammed Bin Zayed City, they’re promising the earth in an area that looks like the moon. Current residents can find a pharmacy and a handful of supermarkets on 16th Street.

Best For…
Wild-eyed visionaries.

Pros
Away from the hustle and bustle, remote communities such as Khalifa City tend to develop their own sense of camaraderie. An abundance of schools in the area make this a popular breeding ground for young families, and Khalifa City ‘A’ has been promised parks a-plenty.

Cons
Getting to the city requires a military-precise level of logistical planning, and even simple trips to the local Al Raha Mall can be hazardous, with the area obviously planned for wheels rather than feet.

Rent

We found a two-bed in a split villa for Dhs145,000. Add Dhs60,000 to that if you fancy a pool and garden.

Cheap alternative

4 Khalifa City ‘B’
What’s the area like? For the time being at least, the poorer cousin of the Khalifa developments in terms of what is ready and the facilities currently available. Until the infrastructure and the rest of the buildings are completed, it will continue to seem like it’s out on the desert fringe (which it is), but as with many of these developments, it is built with an eye on the future, and as the city centre sprawls out over the bridges (in the coming decade), it will come more into the fold. However, with much of it still being developed, rents are more reasonable as speculators are forced to face reality.

Amenities
What amenities? There are still no real facilities yet. Residents tend to hop across Airport Road to Khalifa City A for supplies, or either head down to the Spinneys in Mangrove Village or Carrefour on Old Airport Road for a proper shop.

Best for…
Those looking for an affordable option who don’t mind living in the desert.

Pros
The cost is pretty much currently the incentive. If you can drive, it isn’t that far from the city, and roughly a 25-30-minute commute. The neighbouring Khalifa City ‘A’ is the more advanced of the two, but given time it could become a thriving area.

Cons
It feels like you’re living in the desert, and until recently, when the mosque was built, it was impossible for taxis to find. Simply put, you need a car; life is just too difficult without one here. There is also still a good deal of building to be done, and there’s not much of a community as yet, but the noise is at least kept to a minimum.

Rent
Prices vary between the more princely sums expected in Khalifa City ‘A’, and the cheaper prices in Mohammed Bin Zayed City.

Family friendly

5 Mangrove Village
What’s the area like? Buried deep in Officer City, Mangrove Village is all about ‘the family’; baby buggies are defiantly the accessory of choice, and amongst its largely Western expat contingent there is the makings of a community. Facilities are top rate, but villas (generally three to four bedrooms) are like gold dust at the moment; companies were quick to snap them up and the result is that anyone looking to break the hegemony will need more than a little luck. The good news, though, is that we were told that a few have been coming on the market recently.

Amenities
Swimming pools, a gym, a children’s play area, and best of all, its very own Spinneys make this is a world in itself. ‘We rarely have to go into the city,’ one resident told us. We’re not surprised.

Best For…
That family feel and for those not wanting to brave the Abu Dhabi traffic.

Pros
Al Ghazal run taxis to and from the Village, but these are rarely stumbled upon and require ordering. It’s whisper-quiet (despite all the kids), and pets, including dogs, are welcome. Parking is also not a problem – in short, it’s family friendly.

Cons
Singles need not apply! It can also feel a bit like living on a holiday complex. The nightlife around Officer’s City is absent without leave, but the nearby Shangri-La Hotel and Souq Qaryat Al Beri offer some respite. You will want to escape every now and then, though, if only to retain your sanity.

Rent
There was nothing available at the time of writing. Expect an ugly scrum whenever something turns up.

Downtown

6 Al Markaziyah
What’s the area like? Al Markaziyah is best divided into two areas: the north, between Corniche Rd East and Sheik Zayed 2nd; and the south, between Sheik Zayed 2nd and Al Falah Street. If Abu Dhabi has a beating heart, this is it. Essentially ‘downtown’, it’s high-rise city, with 17-storey apartment blocks rising above shops and stores without a care for vertigo-sufferers or those wanting to see the sky. Around these buildings snake umpteen miscellaneous streets packed with local flavour, and shopkeepers selling everything from holy water to carpets.

Amenities
Centrally located, whatever’s in the city is within easy reach, meaning the usual array of electrical and nick-knack shops, general stores and plenty of restaurants to discover. There is also a Spinneys and a Lulu supermarket within easy walking distance and schools dominate the south side, with five in close proximity.

Best for…
Running errands on foot (a surprising joy), and inner city types who want to be close to the city swell.

Pros
Everything you want is within walking distance: cheap restaurants, a movie theatre, shopping, clubs… It’s central, easy to get delivery, and it’s packed with landmarks so taxi drivers know the locations well – always an advantage.

Cons
Like anywhere in the city, taxis are a nightmare, so prepare to jostle for a cab space like a needy Ben Hur. It’s often very noisy, parking can be non-existent, and traffic is chaotic – even crossing the street can be an ordeal. There’s not much place for kids to play either, unless you head to Capital Garden.

Rent
Nothing to be had for less than Dhs230,000 for a two-bed.

Best kept secret

7 Mohammed Bin Zayed City
What’s the area like? Currently? It’s pretty desolate. If the UAE had tumbleweed, this is where it would blow across the streets. That said, it’s coming on apace, and current inhabitants tend to think they got in early on something special. Prices are still relatively low, and attractive villas, fresh out of the box, are being snapped up by families and singles alike. If they can get a few trees growing, and perhaps lay down the occasional park, it’ll be gorgeous before the decade is over.

Amenities
There’s a local Spinneys, and the shell of a gigantic Carrefour looms on the other side of the highway. A couple of schools, a large bus station, and the cheap and cheerful Al Safeer Centre make this a community waiting to happen.

Best For…
A cheaper alternative to inner city living.

Pros
On a good day, you can drive to Maqtaa Bridge in about 10 minutes, or get over to Al Raha Mall in about 15, meaning it’s well located as the city centre begins to slide further east.

Cons
For the time being, it’s like a construction site in the desert. Just looking at it can make you thirsty. Taxi drivers have very little idea where to go, and there are no landmarks, accurately suggesting that there’s almost nothing there. If you don’t own a car, don’t bother.

Rent
Plenty of two-beds are currently available for Dhs150,000, moving up to Dhs180,000 if you want a pool.

The Burbs

8 Muroor
What’s the area like? Muroor is a puzzle to many. Sandwiched between Muroor Road and Eastern Corniche, it consists largely of built-up residential villas and townhouses, which quickly give way to the shopping area. Those bordering the coast road are close to the mangroves, but some of the older villas are a little rundown. The good news is that these are being gradually demolished and replaced with low rise flats.

Amenities
A number of schools and plenty of walking space along the Eastern Corniche offering room to stretch your legs. The shops are plentiful, but consist largely of tailors and general stores. Most make a beeline for the Carrefour on Airport Road for their main shop.

Best for…
The convenience of innercity living without having to actually live there.

Pros
A good mix of locals and expats, there is a nice community feel; and being just a 10-minute drive from the city centre, it has the advantage over the desert communities. Like nearby Mushrif, it is also popular with those seeking one and two-bedroom partitions. Taxis are not totally impossible, and Al Saada Street is a decent spot to pick one up.

Cons
Noise is an issue in the more built up areas, and with little space for kids to play (apart from a small park to the east), the streets tend to come alive with mini Ronaldo’s in the evenings as the footballs come out. As with most places, prices have also ballooned in recent years, so bargains are few and far between.

Rent
Landlords will frequently show you ‘Muroor’ properties that don’t fit within the Muroor boundaries, hence the wildly varying prices. Expect to pay around Dhs160,000 for two-beds, or Dhs350,000 for a three-bed from a more reputable agent.

Bachelor pads

9 Mushrif
What’s the area like? The sleepy burbs! Large, low-slung villas dominate the area. Its villas and townhouses range drastically in style and condition, and there’s not much of a community – stumbling across anyone is rare. A proliferation of partitioned, Russian-doll-like apartments are the norm, and it is popular with expats seeking something away from the city, although prices have spiralled recently.

Amenities
Small stores provide the necessities, while a branch of ADNB and a petrol station likewise offer an escape from the suburban sprawl.

Best for…
Those seeking a one or two-bedroom apartment away from the urban thrall, but are willing to pay for it.

Pros
Quiet streets and not much traffic make Mushrif a happy medium between island living and the desert outskirts. Prices are also expected to come down, although for the moment remain on the high side.

Cons
Many partitions are made without the aid of contracted builders, which can lead to problems with utilities. Investigate this thoroughly when visiting properties.
Meanwhile, taxis are, as ever, a problem away from the main city area.

Rent
Two-beds can be found for Dhs150,000, with more palatial three-beds starting at Dhs320,000.

Expat purchases welcome

10 Al Raha Gardens
What’s the area like? Al Raha is all about the future – a ‘vibrant waterfront community’ screams the brochure. It is adjacent to and often lumped in with Khalifa City ‘A’. Non-nationals were able to purchase property in Al Raha Gardens on a 99-year lease, although these quickly sold out. Although Al Raha is still under construction, residents say it’s developing into a reasonably quiet area.

Amenities
Al Raha Mall is a 1km walk, or 10km drive, but a lack of footpaths and footbridges doesn’t make the going easy. Residents tend to head to the nearest Spinneys in Mangrove Village or to Khalifa City A.

Best for…
Families with money to spare. There are plenty of schools within the area, but you will need a car to get in and out of the city.

Pros
It offers easy access to the airport and the Dubai/Al Ain road, and it’s a 30-minute drive (on a good day) along Al Salam road to take you to the heart of the city. The proposed Shahama-Saadiyat motorway is also expected to cut travelling time from Raha Beach to downtown in half.

Cons
Raha Gardens is not cheap, and for the time being at least, there isn’t a lot here. Forget about hailing a taxi, too – it just won’t happen; you might also want to memorise the route until the cabbies get the gist. Time will tell for singles seeking sublets (there isn’t much at the moment), and no matter how quickly the city expands, you’re still going to feel a bit out of it.

Rent
The lowest we found was a three-bed ‘townhouse’ for Dhs300,000.

To buy:
One of the few areas available for purchase, a three-bed can be snatched up for Dhs1.5 million.

Quiet suburbia

11 Al Rowdah/Karama/Al Dhafra

What’s the area like?
There is little to separate these areas geographically, in terms of facilities, and in living standards. Low rise houses and compounds make up the majority of the area. The compounds are largely for families, and ancient by UAE standards, as reflected by much of the inherited decor, we were told (Karama is at least 20 years old). But these four to five-bedroom townhouses offer a peaceful environment, and a safe place for kids to play, if at a high premium.

Amenities
Both Karama and Al Dhafra are a short drive from Al Wahda Mall, which is also your best bet for a supermarket – a Karama branch of the Abu Dhabi Cooperative society notwithstanding.

Best for…
Those in search of the quiet suburbs within the city limits.

Pros
There are few villa-based businesses in the area; the roads are quiet and parking is decent. For western expats, the area is something of a home from home, and there is a strong community feel, particularly in the compounds. It’s also a short distance to the Abu Dhabi Main Bus Station.

Cons
Facilities are not what they could be, with only Al Dhafra offering a decent array of nearby restaurants. Taxis can also be elusive, and there is little to do in the area.
Meanwhile, a few speckled grocery stores are all that the immediate vicinity has to offer.

Rent
Three-bed villas can be found in Karama for Dhs300,000, but like Muroor, prices can yo-yo dramatically.

For mall lovers

12 Tourist Club Area
What’s the area like? The area is home to the usual array of tower block apartments and low rise flats. There’s a fair bit of demolition taking place, and there are issues with the roads, but if you’re not put off by the inner city background hum, then you’re well-placed to enjoy what the city has to offer.

Amenities
The location is a peach, with Abu Dhabi Mall just a short walk from most areas. It also boasts plenty of shops, a cinema and a host of restaurants and cafés.

Best for…
Those who don’t mind the noise and can’t bear to be less than 3 ft from a mall.

Pros
Lots of decent places to dine, and shopping is made pretty easy by the mall, although it’s a short drive to the nearest Lulu Supermarket to escape the perils of mini grocery stores. The Corniche and the coastal parks are also nearby, should you want to stretch your legs.

Cons
The noise is tough, and the honking from the traffic can grate. The parking is simply agonising – if you can live without a car, it’s advisable. The traffic is also a nightmare, and the roads seem to change on a daily basis, frankly confusing everyone.

Rent
Ranging between Dhs150,000 and Dhs210,000 for two-beds.

On the radar

In 2006, the Abu Dhabi government amended its property laws, allowing non-nationals to purchase in certain areas of the Emirate on a 99-year lease. Since then a number of ‘to buy’ developments have emerged. Time Out looks at the latest.

A Hydra Village
A development of 2,500 villas, Hydra Village has gone the eco-friendly route, with a recycling programme and free transport to cut down on emissions. A blend of townhouses and top end apartments make up the landscape, with facilities set to include a mosque, a hospital and a five-star hotel. The development was quick to sell out, but contracts are still in the process of being handed out, and the completion date has now been set back to December 2010.

To buy
Two-bedroom houses from Dhs900,000-Dhs1.3 million; three-bedroom houses from Dhs1.2 million-1.5 million.

B Al Reef Villas
A desert city normally signals something rather desolate (think Shamkah or Shawamekh), but Al Reef Villas, located on the outskirts of Hydra Village, is another shiny new development. It also offers 198-year leases to expats (as if 99 years were just not enough). Divided into four differently styled communities: desert and Arabic (handed over by December 2009), and contemporary and Mediterranean (handed over by December 2010). Meanwhile the central area is set to be the location for a shopping district.

To buy
Two-bedroom villas from Dhs1.3 million-Dhs1.8 million; three-bedroom villas from Dhs1.5million-2.6 million.

C Al Reem Island
Located off the North East coast, Al Reem is amongst the most ambitious of the new ‘to buy’ developments. It is divided into three areas: Pearl of the Emirates, which occupies 60 per cent of the island with its 15 towers and five- star hotel; Al Shams (completed 2011), complete with dramatic Gateway Towers and eye-catching cylindrical Solitaire building; and Najmat (completed 2012), a waterside community set to accommodate 80,000. The eventual development will contain schools, medical clinics, a 27-hole golf course, malls, restaurants and every conceivable amenity, we’re told. Eleven bridges are planned to connect it with the city and surrounding islands, and at just 300 metres from the Tourist Club Area, it’s a short hop to ‘old’ Abu Dhabi.

To buy
Prices vary according to location on the island.

D Saadiyat Island
Saadiyat Island is divided into several areas, and is set to be completed in phases leading up to 2018. Gated communities are the order of the day, with parks, health clubs and other island necessities conveniently adjacent. Facilities are somewhat jaw-dropping, although the new Louvre gallery, Guggenheim museum, Performing Arts Centre and a Gary Player coastal golf course (finished in autumn of this year) go beyond the call of mere ‘amenities’ – these can be found in the main shopping district. Soon to be built bridges will connect it to the mainland; however, unless they get the roads right, this could be a tourist traffic nightmare.

To buy

Property isn’t on sale yet, but can be expected to be released soon.

E Yas Island
Feted as the racing capital of the Middle East, the new Grand Prix track set to open in November (fingers crossed) and the Ferrari Theme Park will ensure a steady flow of visitors to Yas Island. Property-wise, the emphasis is on low-rise residential apartments and villas to rent, lease or own. A blend of waterfront (two-tiered apartments located next to the lagoon) and stand alone properties make up the majority of the housing. The nearby retail centre also promises plenty of shops, a kids’ zone, health and fitness centres, spas and exhibition area.

To buy
Prices aren’t yet available, with properties expected to go on the market next year.

On the horizon…

Masdar City
Like living in the shiny, eco-friendly, not-too-distant future, the US$4 billion zero-carbon, zero-waste city of the future even includes tiny electric cars (you’re not allowed to drive within the city limits – that’s why it’s zero carbon!).

Lulu Island
Revealed at last year’s Cityscape, Sourouh’s development of Lulu Island is one for the future. It is set to turn the stretch of land opposite the Corniche into a high rise and low rise development along the lines of Al Reem and others, with canals, marinas and a public beach.

Contributors:
Hallie Engel, Cindy Khoo, Derek Lambe, Bianca Lapins, Jay Mears, Kathryn Ogilvie, Mouna Ouni, Rudi du Plessis, Monette Saade, Barbara Saunders, Jereme Thaxton, Kirsty Vegas, Sameh Zaki

My renting hell

Thinking he could manage on his own, Tony James arrived in Abu Dhabi without guaranteed accommodation, a decision he’d live to regret. Given the financial climate in the UK, a job offer in the UAE seemed like a godsend. ‘I verbally accepted over the phone. The fact that I knew very little about Abu Dhabi didn’t worry me. Here I was, about to embark on an adventure that’d surely involve sea and a lot of sun.

‘The innitial sense of unease crept in hours later, a brief Google session proffering very little accommodation that looked even remotely affordable. In fact, the majority of available places – and locals were blogging that places were far and few between to begin with – were renting for more than my yearly salary. “No worries,” explained a stranger on one forum. “Your company is bound to provide a housing allowance – they always do.” Feeling less uncomfortable, I made a note to phone the HR department after the weekend.

‘“Sorry,” came the reply. I was on my own. On first impressions, things didn’t seem too bad. I thought maybe I could get something through the newspaper ads, and I arranged to meet up with a landlord soon.

‘The landlord didn’t show up. He sent his lackey, who arrived munching watermelon. He led me through a leafy suburb behind the International Community School – the villa itself looked ready to collapse.

‘The lackey showed me into two small rooms; bare breeze blocks for walls, no windows. A third room stood behind a stubborn door, which he wrestled for two or three minutes. It sprang loose and he strode, triumphant, across the floor. A large rat followed him closely. “I think you’ve got rodents,” I said, pointing to the three or four babies that had gathered around my nonchalant friend – he let out a yelp. I let myself out.

‘Had I accepted the place, I’d have been down Dhs110,000 per year. I saw several other very similar places in the six weeks to come, mostly in partitioned villas around Muroor. It took a further 20 or 30 viewings before I found a place, out in Mohammed Bin Zayed City, that was affordable and didn’t look condemned.

‘I quickly realised that reputable estate agents in Abu Dhabi don’t request viewing fees and will not require cash to put you on their books. Their adverts always look professional, and don’t include the phrase, “the numbers to call” – four chilling words that guarantee access to a miserable world nobody should be forced to live in, let alone pay through the nose for the privilege.’