Pat Buchanan has spent two decades organising races at Abu Dhabi Equestrian Club. He assesses the form of racing in the capital
How did racing start in the UAE?
I joined 20 years ago. I was the originator of the first meeting here. Then, it was pretty basic, we had a lot of horses but they weren’t racehorses really. They were beautiful Arabians and a few thoroughbreds, but they weren’t designed for racing. Nor was the track. In the 1970s, the club was designed as a riding school. They’d only have races on National Day and over Eid. The locals would have a few gallops, but it wasn’t professional.
What was it like back then?
They put a small track in during the early 70s. It was circular; there was grass, but it was pretty hard. Think Ben Hur. There was little or no irrigation. We now have a fibre turf track. There’s a lot of give in it and it takes more maintaining that a newborn baby.
What’s it like now?
The first organised race was held in 1991. In the ’92/’93 season everything was legitimised. We’re members of the International Horse-racing Conference and have upwards of 100 runners at each meet. If a guy is suspended here it’s reciprocal anywhere in the world and every winner is dope tested.
What kind of horses race?
We’re different from Dubai; we race predominantly Arabian horses. They are a different breed. It was the late Sheikh Zayed’s original love of Arabian horses which started it all. Are they quicker? No, but they are probably more durable. The races aren’t by any means longer, but we do have endurance racing which is another thing entirely. There they go up to 160 km.
Who races?
Around 80 per cent of the jockeys are from the UK. In the Emirates we only have one national rider, Ahmed Ajtebi.
What’s raceday like?
It gets pretty busy. With feature races like the National Day Cup (December 6) or the Presidents Cup, we get up to around 5,000 people.
Races at Abu Dhabi Equestrian Club are held on November 8, 15 and 22.
First, a word of warning. Do not set out for the camel races expecting an easy ride. Set your GPS for 24˚11’26”N by 54˚38’49”E and hope for the best. Only when you see a metallic space station rising from the sands of Al Wathba will you know that your journey is complete.
In truth, the trip is a large part of the fun. Follow the Al Ain road through Al Wathba (about 45 minutes from the Corniche) and look for the road signs. You’ll arrive at a sparse racing track populated with a pitiful gathering of lippy beasts. This is the Al Wathba racetrack, used for the big public holiday events. It also means you’re in the wrong place. The weekly track is further along in a barren area not dissimilar to Star Wars’ Tatooine. Inside, camels, Bedouin, trainers and more well-to-do visitors jostle around the edge of the dirt track – the sounds and smells are everything you might imagine them to be. The elaborate grandstand itself – the aforementioned space station – is virtually empty.
Despite the throng, the track itself is lacking in action. Everyone is standing around looking like they’ve nothing better to do. Other than the grandstand and the vast desert there’s nothing to see – no stalls or shops to browse; no souvenirs or burgers to be had. It’s somewhat underwhelming.
And then a shout goes up. Everyone presses up against the railings. In the distance, an apocalyptic cloud of dust looms towards you at tremendous speed. The camels lunge forwards, lips and tongues lolling back around their ears, muzzles covered in frothy spittle. Perched on their backs are tiny electronic devices, wrapped in Arabian cloth and woven into the saddle bags. Jockeys dropped from favour in 2005, when the use of children under the age of 18 was banned by the government. What we have here are their sci-fi descendants – robots, bought in from East Asia at about US$2000 a pop, operated via remote control. These robots can be made to tug on reins and wield racing whips.
Even more amazing is the sight of the frantic owners, who follow the camels along the side of the track in crowded 4x4s. Around 40 vehicles trail the animals in hot pursuit, passengers yelling and yodeling to freak
the animals to a faster pace. Can anyone join this mad train, Time Out wonders? ‘Only if you have your own 4×4,’ explains a track official. ‘If you go in a smaller car, it will not be good. Nobody sees you. They’re all watching the camels.’
The owner of the fastest camel stands to win a magnificent prize. ‘Could be a luxury car,’ the official says. ‘Yesterday it was 10 luxury cars.’ There may be as many as 15 races in a single morning, with up to 50 camels in any one race. ‘We tried more,’ he tells us, ‘but it was dangerous. Too many 4x4s.’
Camel racing at Al Wathba takes place on Thu, Fri and, occasionally, Sat, 6.30am-8.30am until April.
The form book
UAE racing commentator Terry Spago tells us how to pick a winner.
‘You basically look for the same thing in Arabian horses as you would in thoroughbreds: basically a fit horse. Early in the season, horses are not going to be fully wound up, so it could lead to some surprise winners – although it doesn’t necessarily mean that. For those not pracitised you look for muscle definition, healthy coat and bright eyes.
‘The Al Reef Stable always has a strong hand in Arabian racing; also Abu Dhabi-based trainer Rod Simpson, who trained Fryvolous (winner of last year’s Dubai Classic). These are two stables that are always worth looking out for.’
Factoff
What do you pay?
Camel: It’s free.
Horse: Likewise, not a bean!
What do you stand to win?
Nothing. Gambling is illegal and the only winners here are the owners. No betting, but you’re invited (free of charge) to predict the first three finishers in each race. Winners are announced after the races with Dhs25,000 up for grabs.
Is there a dress code?
Well, not so much. Normal UAE rules apply, particularly for women. Smart casual is the norm, although if you want to blag your way into the VIP section it’s best to look the part.
What are the facilities like?
The grandstand has toilets and crumbling seats. The best you can hope for is shelter from the sun. The track is pretty modern; there’s no bar, but there are soft drinks, sandwiches and shawarmas to be found.
Can you make a day of it?
No, but it’s quite the pre-breakfast experience. Surrounded by decorated dromedaries, watch the sun come up over the grandstand and imagine you’ve slipped into an alternate reality. Similarly, no. Racing starts at 6pm (although at least it’s not am) with 30 minute intervals between the six races.
Can you get close to the animals?
They’re all around you, so it’s almost unavoidable. However, don’t try petting them without the owner’s permission. Plus, if you have your own 4×4, you can drive alongside them as they run. Not really, these are expensive horses, not pets.
Are there regular events?
Races take place every weekend from October to March. The biggest events take place on public holidays, when the venue is guaranteed to be heaving. Between three and four Saturdays a month from November to March.
Is it worth it?
Yes! Where else in the world can you see robots ride animals? Definitely. It’s simply a day at the races. What could be better than that?
Nose to nose
There are plenty of chances to get up close and personal with Arabia’s favourite beasts.
Camel rides
Heading out from the Al Ain Hilton, it takes about 30 minutes to reach the red hills that line the northern-most reaches of the city where Al Ain Camel Safaris operates. Plan for an evening trek and leave your cynical self behind – the repetitive sway of these magnificent creatures can be hypnotic and relaxing.
A one-hour trek costs Dhs150; Dhs75 for children. Call 03 768 8066 to book.
Camel polo
Yes, it exists, but you need to go to the Academy at Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club. Any group upwards of eight people can set up a session. At Dhs690 per person, it isn’t cheap for an hour and a half of fun, but trainers are in control of the animals at all times, and, if you want, you can even have them sat behind you.
Call 04 404 5880 to arrange a chukka.
Buying a camel
Located five minutes’ drive from Al Ain Hilton, off 127th Street, try visiting the camel market in Al Ain; it’s open daily and free of charge. You can pick up a baby camel for about Dhs3,000, not that it’ll be exactly race ready (racing camels cost about Dhs16,000) and bag some fresh camel milk to boot.
Camel chocolate
Some say it has a bit of a tang, but camel milk is a whole lot healthier than cow’s milk: it has five times more vitamin C and contains less fat, less lactose and more insulin, making it a good option for diabetics and the lactose intolerant.
Check out www.al-nasma.com or visit to Emirates Mall to get your hands on some.
Riding and showjumping
Abu Dhabi Equestrian Club is the city’s main starting point for all things horsey. The teaching school has just started up again and has lessons for all ages. For adults, there is a membership fee of Dhs800, while once a week classes (until June) cost Dhs2,100 for the season. Plus, live showjumping is free to watch and begins on November 5.
Call 02 445 5500 for more information.
Desert treks
The Dhabian Stables, near Tulip Inn, take in strays and abandoned horses from across the UAE. Desert rides are Dhs120 per hour, beach rides are Dhs350 net, including snacks and refreshments. The beach is a good three-and-a-half hour ride. But if you’re just interested in getting close to the animals, you could volunteer at the stables to work with the rescue horses. They also offer lessons.
Call Tina on 050 662 0969 to book.
Riding weekends
Al Awadi stables are located near Al Dhaid on the Ras Al Khaimah border. They offer riding weekends amongst the mountains and rough terrain of the area. They even have camping facilities for those who stump up Dhs50 per pitch. There’s a purpose-built campfire and BBQ area for anyone who wants to get in the camping spirit.
Call 050 965 6870 to book.
Horse polo
The polo school is just starting up at Ghantoot Racing and Polo club. It’s still pretty new and doesn’t have many members yet, but for those living in Abu Dhabi it’s a good chance to learn a new sport or get match fit for the season.
Call 02 562 9050 to book.
