1 Singara (Bengali samosa), Salem Saleh Cafeteria, Dhs1.5 for two: We get our samosas to go at this busy little hole in the wall, then bite through the firm shortcrust pastry pyramid to enjoy the surprisingly delicate, slightly sweet, spicy potato mixture within.
Off Hamdan street, around corner from Hatem Al Taei Iranian restaurant. No phone. Samosas and singaras available after 5pm. Cash only.
2 Pan gilari, Sandesh Sweets, Dhs3 for one: These cleverly designed creations use rose jam and marzipan to evoke their real, not allowed in UAE, betel leaf cousins. There is plenty here, too, for the more conservative; the counters in this friendly little hot-pink café are stuffed with beautiful sweets all made on site.
Back from junction of Hamdan and Salam Street, next to Royal Vegetarian Restaurant (02 671 4272). Credit cards accepted.
3 Pani puri, chaat counter outside Evergreen Restaurant, Dhs4 for six: This Indian street snack is best eaten outdoors and in a hurry. We order a plate of six and shovel the hot, sour, sweet, crispy balls whole into our mouths as fast as the ‘chaat wallah’ can spoon in the spicy potato mix, tamarind and mint/chilli water.
Off Electra Street, behind Eldorado Cinema (02 676 7361). Chaat counter open daily 5pm-10.30pm, restaurant open daily 7am-3pm, 7pm-11pm. Cash only.
4 Kashmiri naan, Arab Udupi, Dhs6: This sweet Kashmiri naan, chock full with luminescent orange-coloured coconut, is one for the senses: truly a sight to behold, and our taste buds approved wholeheartedly.
City branch on Hamdan, behind Novotel (02 632 3355). Open daily noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight. Cash only.
5 Cabbage thali with chapattis, Anand Restaurant, Dhs11: Great prices, daily menu changes, smiling staff, fresh chapattis, mountains of rice and, of course, scrumptious, all-you-can-eat
Gujarati pulses and veggies: Anand is the city’s best-kept vegetarian secret.
Behind Al Fardan Jewellery, Hamdan Street (02 672 4677). Open daily 8.15am-2.45am, 6pm-10.45pm. Cash Only.
6 Mutton korma, Al Ibrahimi, Dhs12: A million miles away from its sweet coconut and cream laden British namesake, the tender mutton of this Pakistani/Indian dish lies in a smooth, lightly spiced, meaty gravy. Rounds of hot, fresh bread come free and we use them to mop up every last drop.
Electra Street (02 634 6258). Open daily noon-midnight. Credit cards accepted.
7 Shahi paneer, Royal Vegetarian, Dhs12: A fortuitous mistake turned our order of sag paneer into shahi paneer and bestowed upon us a South Indian dish of such extravagance we were left speechless. Morsels of cheese afloat in a sea of rich cream sauce – we’ve been on the treadmill ever since.
Hamdan Street, behind Sun and Sand Sports (02 678 7272). Open daily 8am-3pm, 7pm-10.30pm. Cash only.
8 Mutton biryani, Fujairah Restaurant, Dhs13: Giant (and we mean giant) chunks of boneless lamb lie hidden under a mound of intensely spiced rice that included hints of mint, cardamom and clove. This tasty Pakistani dish could easily feed two.
Electra Street, behind El Dorado Cinema (02 677 5628). Open daily 6am-1am. Cash only.
9 Veg thali, Chhapan Bhog, Dhs15: This veg-only restaurant’s offerings change according to what’s fresh. Variety and great value are the selling points here. The sticky, swirled jalabi that came with the dinner thali was particularly good.
Sas Al Nakhl, Salaam Street, behind Adnoc building (02 677 8864). Open daily 8.30am-midnight. Credit cards accepted.
10 Fish thali, Airlines Restaurant, Dhs 15: We think the fish thali at this South Indian restaurant is one of the best lunch deals in town. The two fish dishes, fried in a tasty tamarind/coconut gravy, come accompanied by daal, vegetables, avial, yoghurt, rice, huge discs of soft paper-thin bread, a papadom, and a sweet, milky, cardamom-scented
vermicelli dessert.
Off Hamdan Street (02 633 5214). Open daily 7.30am-midnight. Credit cards accepted.
11 Gullab jamun, India Palace, Dhs16: Deep-fried dumplings made from reduced milk, served in a small vat of honey and saffron. ‘Sweet’ is an understatement. It cakes your palette and leaves a nagging aftertaste that demands an extra serving. Very dangerous indeed.
Al Salaam Street (02 644 8777). Open daily noon-11.30pm. Credit cards accepted.
12 Pepper chicken dry, Anjappar, Dhs 19.50: The spicy Chettinad cuisine that Anjappar does so well is not for the faint hearted. We love their punchy pepper chicken heavily loaded with curry and bay leaves, cinnamon, star anise, nutmeg, chilli and, of course, plenty of black pepper.
Salaam street (02 672 1500). Open daily 7.30am-4pm, 6.30pm-midnight. Credit cards accepted.
13 Meen molly, Nalukettu, Dhs20: A Keralan classic, this kingfish curry has an almost Thai flavour: bursting with coconut, coriander and curry leaves, it is delicate and aromatic. After the chunks of fresh fish had been devoured we mopped up the gravy with every possible receptacle, not wanting the experience to end.
Abu Dhabi Marina and Yacht Club, Tourist Club Area (02 644 4395). Open daily noon-midnight. Credit cards accepted.
14 Murg pathiala, Hot Plate, Dhs20: Basically a chicken omelette curry, but with plenty of coriander and green chilli beaten in with the egg. Originating from the Punjab, this is the kind of grub that works well the morning after the night before.
Mina Mall (02 676 5488). Open daily noon-3pm, 6.30pm-midnight. Credit cards accepted.
15 Mystical momos, Curry House, Dhs20: Anyone who has spent any time in Nepal will know exactly what a momo is. Small parcels of beef, chicken or veg, served with a spicy dipping sauce, these are the curry version of dim sum, and all the more moreish for it.
Electra Street (02 632 8860). Open daily 11.30am-11.30pm. Credit cards accepted.
16 Rogan josh lamb, Tandoori Corner, Dhs23: Extremely tender lamb served in an onion gravy tempered with spices from the Northern regions. It goes great with Tandoori Corner’s veg biryani and their amazing naan. The rich amalgamation of onion and lamb conspire against your better instincts as you reach for the ladle once more…
Old Airport Road, Al Wahda (02 445 8686). Open daily 11am-midnight. Credit cards accepted.
17 Fish tikka masala, Nihal, Dhs24: This spicy Bengali dish marries a thick tomato and cream-based gravy with chunks of extremely fresh fish. Best to book ahead, as the whole menu is extremely popular.
Electra Street, close to Najda Street (02 631 8088). Open daily 1.30pm-3.30pm, 5.30pm-12.30am. Credit cards accepted.
18 Tandoori murg, Moti Mahal, Dhs28: More of a back-to-basics, snack-like affair, this simple, spicy chicken dish comes from an old Delhi recipe and is marinated in yoghurt, ginger, garlic and home-made masala before being roasted in a clay oven. Finger lickin’ good.
Madinat Zayed, off Salaam Street (02 674 2121). Open daily noon-4pm, 7pm-11pm. Credit cards accepted.
19 Kadhai murg, Kwality, Dhs28: Boneless chicken morsels cooked in a traditional khadai (a wok common in north India) are then set to swim in a tomato-based sauce singing with aromatic spices.
Off Salaam Street, behind construction works, Al Markaziyah (02 672 7337). Open daily noon-11.30pm. Credit cards accepted.
20 Kerala banana leaf lunch, Ruchi, Dhs28: Similar to sappadu, an Andhra Pradesh speciality, the strong coconut flavours here make this assuredly Keralite. Not for prissy eaters, this mound of rice and gravy (only available on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays), is less finger food than an up-to-your elbows food fight.
Behind Al Mariah Mall, Al Markaziyah (02 679 2679). Open daily 8am-midnight. Cash only.
21 Shahi kabargah, Haveli, Dhs32: The signature dish at this North Indian restaurant is billed as being the ‘favourite dish of Mughal Emperors’ and after enjoying tender chunks of lamb in a creamy, delicately spiced gravy, we felt positively regal.
Khalidiya, behind Regal (02 632 1448). Open daily noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight. Credit cards accepted.
22 Dum aloo Banarasi, Raj Palace, Dhs32: North Indian in preparation, heavenly in taste, but what else would you expect from a dish of potatoes stuffed with finely chopped cashew nuts, served in a mildly-spiced cashew gravy? Beyond belief.
Al Diar Capital Hotel (02 672 3562). Open daily noon-1am. Credit cards accepted.
23 Murgh tikka masala, Foodlands Restaurant, Dhs34: Chunks of tender chicken are first roasted in a tandoor oven, then stewed in a creamy tomato curry to make this signature tikka dish. Needless to say, we mopped up every drop of the rich gravy with their hot, fresh naan. Excellent stuff.
Airport Road, near HSBC (02 633 0099). Open daily 7am-midnight. Credit cards accepted.
24 Chandni Chowk ka keema, Asha’s, Dhs52: Minced lamb, onions and ‘Asha’s secret spices’ are topped with sliced, roasted almonds and diced tomato. A Delhi dish,
the words ‘meaty goodness’ were invented for this food.
Khalidiyah Mall (02 635 9300). Open daily 11.30am-11pm. Credit cards accepted.
25 Murg makhani, Ushna, Dhs65: This Punjabi creation that packs in the cashews, the cream and the fenugreek is delight in a dish. An added dollop of honey is said to help the health, though there can’t be anything healthy about this reasonably priced winner.
Souk Qaryat Al Beri (02 558 1769). Open daily 12.30pm-12.30am. Credit cards accepted.
26 Prawn biryani, Angar, Dhs90: Previously an ask-the-chef-only dish, this offering from the Hyderabad area is very soon to have a permanent place on the menu due to overwhelming popularity. Served with saffron rice and seasoned with garam masala, complemented by a raita yoghurt condiment. Savour the secret.
The Yas Hotel (02 656 0760). Open daily 12.30pm-3pm, 7pm-11pm. Credit cards accepted.
27 Raan-e-sikandari, Zari Zardozi, Dhs110: Served on a hot iron dish, this lava-coloured, sizzling, volcano-like mountain of melt-in-your-mouth lamb comes from the Uttar Pradesh region. It’s marinated overnight with spices and then slow cooked in a tandoor in a rich tomato gravy. What’s not to like?
Al Raha Mall (02 556 5188). Open Sat-Thu 11am-11pm; Fri 12.30pm-11pm. Credit cards accepted.
28 Tandoori lamb chops, Rangoli, Dhs115: This magnificently presented meal has its roots in the northern region of India and is marinated in khatta pyaz for 24 hours. Served on a bed of small, spicy cubes of potato, the big, meaty chunks practically fall off the bone.
Yas Island Rotana (02 656 4000). Open Tue-Sun 7.30pm-11.30pm. Credit cards accepted.
29 Prawn masala, Indigo, Dhs125: A spicy, North Indian dish that can’t be served mild. This offering from the city’s award-winning restaurant is as far from the likes of Ruchi as is imaginable, but just as delectable. Not to be missed. Beach Rotana (02 697 9000). Open daily noon-3.30pm, 7.30pm-12.30pm. Credit cards accepted.
Our Favorites…
Mumbai: bhel puri, sev puri, paani puri
Arab Udupi, Hamdan Street ‘These aren’t really dishes, they’re more like snacks. They have a sweet and sour taste. I’ve tasted them at Arab Udupi and Chhappan Bhog [Electra]. However, neither of them can actually replicate the absolutely authentic taste you get in Mumbai. They’re always a “must” on things I have to do when in Mumbai.’ Sarita D’Mello, Mumbai, currently working at Abu Dhabi Hilton
Keralite: Fish curry
Golden Spike Restaurant, Mussafah
‘I’m from Calicut in Kerala. I was eating the banana leaf meal at Ruchi today, but I’ve been in Abu Dhabi for three years now and I really like the fish curry at Golden Spike.’ Beeran Kutty, Kerala, valet parking assistant
Kashmiri: Mutton rogan josh
Arab Udupi, Hamdan Street
‘Its flavour and aroma reminds me of my homeland. Arab Udupi provides a variety of delicacies and, at times, it makes it difficult to choose which dish to try. The service provided by all the assistants there is just so warm. I’d recommend Arab Upudi to any Indians living in Abu Dhabi to try just once. ’
Joyson D’Souza, Mumbai, IT engineer
Andra Pradesh: chicken curry Rainbow Steakhouse, off Hamdan ‘There are lots of great dishes from my home country. I’m proud of Indian food. My favourite restaurant in Abu Dhabi is probably the Rainbow Steakhouse – I really love their chicken and fish curries.’ Sheik Mohammed, Andra Pradesh, valet parking assistant.
Spice Talk
If Indian menus feel as accessible as Fort Knox, you might want to brush up on your lexicon. We’ve assembled your key to unlocking the mysteries of sub-continental cuisine.
Aloo: potato
Ayre: a white fish used in Bengali cooking
Baingan or brinjal: aubergine
Balti: stir-fried curry served in a karai metal pot
Bhindi: okra
Chapatti: a flat whole wheat griddle bread
Chaat: savoury snacks, often made with potato or chick peas
Dahi: yoghurt
Dahl: a lentil curry similar to thick lentil soup
Ghee: clarified butter used for frying
Gobi: cauliflower
Gosht: meat, usually lamb
Handi: a metal cooking pot similar to a wok
Jalfrezi: spicy dish cooked with ginger and chilli
Kachori: crisp pastry rounds with spiced mung dahl or pea filling
Korma: a mild curry braised in yoghurt, cream and nuts
Lassi: a yoghurt drink, ordered with salt or sugar, sometimes with fruit. Ideal to quench a fiery palette
Machli: fish
Murgh: chicken
Mutter, matar, muter or matter: peas
Naan: flatbreads cooked in a large tandoor oven
Paratha: a large griddle-fried bread that is sometimes stuffed
Peshwari: bread or dish with sweet dry fruit and nuts
Phal: a British creation and the hottest curry available. For masochists and idiots alone
Pilau: flavoured rice cooked with meat or vegetables
Raita: yoghurt with added vegetables or nuts
Saslik: anything grilled
Seekh: anything on a skewer
Tandoori: baked in a clay/mud oven
Tikka: marinaded meat, cooked in a tandoor
Vindaloo: hot Goan curry, often with potato. From vinha d’alhos, a Portuguese dish made with garlic and vinegar
Xacuti: a Goan dish made with lamb or chicken pieces, coconut and a complex mix of roasted then ground spices
As good as it gets
The Beach Rotana’s Indigo restaurant picks up awards like a magnet picks up paperclips. But how authentic are Chef Gaurav’s curry creations? Would you really expect to find his amazing prawn masala anywhere other than here in Dhabi?
‘We actually have two sections to our menu,’ he explains. ‘One is the really traditional Indian food, the other is a very modern version – I’ll not say fusion – where we’ve combined the best of different techniques. For example, the masala chicken that we do: we use the breast and the leg. The breast is marinated and cooked in the tandoor, whereas the leg is actually marinated, vacuum packed and cooked sous vide in the oven for eight hours.
‘Actually, the classic chicken tikka masala doesn’t come from India,’ he laughs. ‘It originated in the UK, where it was made using a can of Campbell’s tomato soup! That’s a fact!’ Guarav concurs that a more regular Indian meal would not include fine dining of this nature. ‘In Delhi, for breakfast, we’d have stuffed parathas, cooked on the grill and served with yoghurt. For an evening meal we’d have chaat (which literally means “to lick”), or we’d have pakoras. These are roadside snacks that vary from the North to the South.’
We wonder where the celebrated chef goes out to eat when he’s not here slaving over a hot tandoor. ‘There’s a restaurant called Sangeeta. It’s near Al Salaam Hospital and they do very good South Indian food. I’ll have that for my breakfast!’
The spice trail
1. Salem Saleh Cafeteria
2. Sandesh Sweets
3. Evergreen Restaurant
4. Arab Udupi
5. Anand Restaurant
6. Al Ibrahimi
7. Royal Vegetarian
8. Fujairah Restaurant
9. Chhapan Bhog
10. Airlines Restaurant
11. India Palace
12. Anjappar
13. Nalukettu
14. Hot Plate
15. Curry House
16. Tandoori Corner
17. Nihal
18. Moti Mahal
19. Kwality
20. Ruchi
21. Haveli
22. Raj Palace
23. Foodlands Restaurant
24. Asha’s
25. Ushna
26. Angar
27. Zari Zardosi
28. Rangoli
29. Indigo
Curry Wars
Never let it be said that Time Out Abu Dhabi turns down the chance of a good pun. Here are a few we came up with between courses…
• Poppadom Preach
• Tears on My Pilau
• It’s My Chapati and I’ll Cry if I Want To
• Dansak in The Street
• Living Dal
• What’s the Story, Morning Tandoori?
• Papa’s got a Brand New Sag
• Tikka Chance on Me
• Phal at Your Feet
• Korma Police
• Macho Nan
• Aloo, is it Me You’re Looking For?
• Tikka to Ride
• Korma Chameleon
• Phall Guy
• Dhansak so Close to Me
• Never Mind the Boli
• Girlfriend in a Korma (for cannibalists)
• Kadhi Cool
• Don’t Feel Like Dhansak
• Paperback Raita
• Move Over Dahling
• Curry on Regardless
• Bhuna or Later
• It’s Dahl too Beautiful
• Rhythm is a Dhansak
• Dahl Along the Watchtower
• I Can’t Help Pahling in Love With You
