The shawarma is a mighty beast indeed. Although it amounts to little more than meat, potato and unleavened bread, it has the power to make grown men babble incoherently, comparing the properties of their preferred sandwich in a way they’d usually reserve for their cars. Debates rage over the perfect ingredients, but a standard shawarma ought to include chicken or lamb sliced from a spit, a sauce of some kind (yoghurt or houmous are common), a nod to the vegetable community, and possibly a scattering of French fries. Minimalists will tell you that less is best. For what it’s worth, we say it’s all in the wrapping.
Seashell Cafeteria
4/7
During a recent outing, an Abu Dhabi local currently studying in the UK admitted feeling at his most lonesome when dreaming of this colourful little eatery. They knock together a tasty little treat, heavy on the tahini, rammed with large chunks of freshly cut veg. The tangy red sauce was a happy surprise, though unlikely to please the purists, and with so much going on inside, there was little room to let the juices run free.
1 chicken shawarma, 4Dhs. Located just behind Khalidiya Tower, Khalidiya. 02 621 5234
Zawak Al Sham
7/7
Unsurprisingly, the best was off the beaten track. The owner seemed genuinely amazed to find a western face peering through his window, but the shock didn’t put him off his mission. ‘You don’t like it, you don’t pay,’ he intoned as he dropped an innocent looking flatbread on our table. The contents appeared to be little more than meat and herbs, but what a work of art. So tender, we almost cried.
1 chicken shawarma, Dhs5. Located nr Fit Worx, Khalidiya, 02 665 9935
Al Ramla Coast Restaurant
2/7
As is so often the way, this little wrap suffered at the hands of a spud tyrant. Much of the meat was banished in favour of stodgy fried potato, and what remained was driven to an anonymous yogurt reservoir, and drowned. A tragic story best forgotten.
1 lamb shawarma, Dhs4. Located in Khalidiya, near Baskin Robbins, 02 633 3515
Beirut
3/7
The yuppie of the shawarma world, Beirut’s meat special was born and raised in a mall. Not that it’s any less tasty for it – the sandwich was nicely sauced, if not a little tightly packed. Putting the French fries on the side was an interesting decision; although in retrospect, perhaps a little cowardly. Unfortunately, this sarnie can only be had at Abu Dhabi prices. Best go elsewhere.
1 lamb shawarma, Dhs18. Located in Al Wahda Mall, 02 443 7655
Jabel al Noor
6/7
A wonderful critter. Chunky meat, a rich tahini taste, the tantalising hint of spice and just the right amount of potato. All this and still as loose as a goose. He gave us a healthy pack of free pickles, too. What a talented fellow.
1 chicken shawarma, Dhs4. Located behind Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank, Khalidiya, 02 666 5959
Al Safadi
4/7
You can probably see the green neon sign from the moon. The produce had a good meat-to-spud ratio and the toastiest bread, sadly drowned in a vat’s-worth of yoghurt sauce. Disappointing.
1 chicken shawarma, Dhs5. Located opposite Berlitz language school, Khalidiya, 02 666 0201
Sonbolat Lebanon
5/7
We could sense the shawarma pride from across the street, as the jolly owner called upon us to try his wares. He’s a big fan of Chelsea, Man Utd, Man City; anybody you like, provided you’ve got your hand on your wallet. And he’s good, too. Loose and meaty with tangy pickles, though possibly a little too free with the spuds.
1 chicken shawarma, Dhs5. Located nr Zayed Mosque, 02 631 9780
Lebanese Flower
6/7
As any long-term inhabitant of the capital will tell you, Lebanese Flower is legendary. The taxi driver lost control of his eyes and tongue when we gave him the address. ‘You hungry?’ he asked. ‘You’ll eat the best in Abu Dhabi!’ And he was almost right. The meat was long and loose, still bubbling in its own juices, and the sauce it bathed in could be replicated and marketed in a souk of its very own.
1 chicken shawarma, Dhs5. Located behind the blood bank, Al Salam Street, 02 645 633
