If henna is not a tradition your own culture lays claim to, then it’s one you most probably harbour an intrigued appreciation for. And what’s not to appreciate? With Eid gone by, we’ve all appreciated the henna-adorned hands and feet of a lot of ladies around town. Now with National Day upon us, you’ll doubtless be appreciating a lot more, and perhaps, will even want to join in the festivities and decorate your own limbs. We certainly do, and this desire inspired the following epiphany: How many of us see beyond its sensuous cosmetic value, to consider the rich henna tradition for the art that it really is?
Mankind has been using the henna plant to dye wool, leather, hair, skin, fingernails and even livestock or favourite horses since antiquity. From as far as the Eastern Mediterranean to Africa, the Middle East and Asia, the tradition is prevalent across numerous cultures and faiths. Whether it spread through intercultural exchange, or originated independently in various regions, is uncertain. What is certain is that every culture associates henna with celebration.
It’s safe to say that there are as many styles of henna, as there are cultures that practice it. And by cultures, we don’t just mean those defined by a nation state. Within Morocco alone, there are unique regional styles, and Yemeni subcultures have patterns distinct to every community. This article will come nowhere close to doing the subject justice. Yet undeterred, we’ve put together a brief overview that might help you tell one regional variety apart from another.
Let’s start at home. In Abu Dhabi, we’re most familiar with the large, sparse floral designs of the Gulf style. This is not to be confused with the Yemeni style, which is similar, but has its own unique motifs and a serpentine way of flowing, so that patters drape around and along the limbs. In Yemen they also have something called Naqsh, meaning adornment. It’s the same concept, but in place of (or sometimes mixed in with) the henna, they use khidab – which is a black gall ink.
Also topping popularity charts is what we commonly refer to as the Indian style, or mehndi. This category actually comprises the Indian and Pakistani varieties. A typical Indian design will bear a large dot or figure in the centre of the palm, from which other patterns will emerge outwards, and fingertips will be coloured in completely. The Pakistani style is more elaborate, with fine fill-ins and very little open spaces. Pakistani artists also do a lot of shadowing and scribbling for the fills. To us the result looks a bit like fish-scales.
The Sudanese go for blocky, vegetal and floral patterns. Whereas in Mauritania they like their patterns intricate and lace-like, made up of webs of geometric shapes, which curve and flow freely. A recent development in this region has been the use of a tape resist. Hours are spent cutting stencil patterns into surgical tape by very skilled, razor wielding women. The fruit of their labours is plastered onto the skin and the henna spread over.
Though surgical tape is modern invention, the use of resists has been around since time immemorial. At henna nights in some regions of Turkey, a piece of string will be netted around the bride’s feet to serve as a resist when the henna is applied. Similarly, coins will be pressed into her palms, and henna covered over them, so that when it’s eventually removed, she’ll be sporting two, blank circles. Significantly, they’ll be a mirror reverse of the red circles painted into the groom’s palms.
And finally Morocco. Here it’s all about straight draped lines, intricate patterns and geometric figures, though regional styles will vary.
Henna tips
1 Mixing your own henna? Add some sugar to get a stringy concoction which is ideal for fine, intricate patterns.
2 Artists in Morocco use a syringe to apply henna. Experiment till you find whatever you’re most comfortable with.
3 After application, let your henna dry a bit, then dab it with lemon juice or tea-tree oil. This makes the colour stronger.
4 There’s no such thing as ‘black henna.’ This is either indigo, mixed into the henna or the Yemeni khidab. Be wary of the Sudanese black henna, which often contains harmful dyes.
