Posted inThe Knowledge

Adventurous abayas

The new season’s abayas are bold, creative and devestatingly elegant

Sumayyah Al Suwaidi

One of Abu Dhabi’s most stylish ladies, Sumayyah Al Suwaidi is the owner and managing director of boutique Grafika, and also the creative director of her own range of abayas – Seen. These are stocked in store, alongside collections from Amal Murad, Amber Feroz, Malaak, Miss Elegant, Moza Al Suwaidi and Surbhi Jaggi.

What inspires you when you’re designing?
How I feel and what I need to wear, to be honest. I always test my abayas on myself first. After I’ve seen the reactions of the people around me, then I make one for sale.

What’s the most unusual design in Grafika’s new collection?
All the abayas at the store are unusual. You’ll find the three-in-one abaya by Seen, which is basically a sleeveless black abaya with a jacket and shaila so you can mix and match it with anything and wear it on any occasion. You’ll also find the jersey unique cuts abayas by Amber Feroz.

Would you say your abayas are designed to be worn on special occasions?
Some of the abayas are designed for special occasions and others for casual wear. For example, our Seen three-in-one abaya, I wear for an exhibition opening or an official function, but then when it’s time to go to work you’ll see me wearing a plain straight cut abaya with sleeves made of a different material to give it that designer touch. The fancy abayas, the ones you can wear to a gathering or a function have been very popular this season. In general, the abayas at Grafika are unique, so women mostly buy from us because they have a special event to go to or because they want to look different.

What are your favourite ways to accessorise an abaya?
Personally, I would choose a simple long necklace, bracelet and a ring, but also definitely a beautiful clutch.

What kind of woman do you picture wearing your abayas?
Our abayas are made for women who are bold and courageous enough to look different, women who want to stand out from the crowd and are not afraid for other women to stare at them. I believe our abayas at Grafika appeal to all ages, because we sell abayas for every young or old woman out there. We have the funky, flashy abayas and also the classy, chic ones, so every woman who comes into the store will surely find something she likes.

What will you be wearing this Ramadan and why?
I will be wearing my Seen abayas to special functions and get-togethers in the evening, and Amber Feroz abayas for the daytime.

What’s been the most dominating trend for abayas in 2011 so far?
The jersey abayas are a big hit so far, women love them because they get shaped by the form of the body that’s wearing it.
Grafika, Al Wahda Mall (02 443 7111). www.grafikauae.com.

Sumayyah’s five top tips for wearing an abaya with style

1 Keep it long from the back and a bit short in the front so your heels or the beautiful shoes you’re wearing will show.

2 Make sure your abaya is not too long so you don’t look like you’re cleaning the floor.

3 Make sure the sleeves are not too long so they don’t cover your hands and cover the rings you’re wearing.

4 Make sure the abaya fits perfectly to your size so it doesn’t look like you’re wearing someone else’s abaya.

5 The shaila has to match the abaya, and, if it doesn’t, make sure you wear a plain black shaila.


Lamya Abedin

Lamya Abedin is the designer behind Queen of Spades. Her couture abayas are known for their originality (previous collections have themes as unexpected and diverse as Betty Boop and the Japanese kimono) and for Ramadan this year she’s launched the Oasis limited edition collection, inspired by the Bedouin lifestyle of the Arabian Peninsula.

What inspires you when you’re designing a new abaya?
Everything around me is my inspiration. My daughter’s shoe, my handbag, a texture of a pillow case, a belt. I am always looking for uniqueness in everything and take my inspiration from that. Cultures, old times, movies, books, textures, colours of flowers, accessories, the cities I visit and people I meet are my all-time sources of inspiration.

Tell us a bit about the abayas in your latest collection…
Inspired by the Bedouin lifestyle in the Arabian Peninsula, the Oasis collection showcases the traditional silhouettes that have come to be identified with the rich Bedouin heritage. The collection presents a wide array of unique pieces that brings to life the colourful hues and aristocracy associated with the Bedouin culture, with an element of modernity and style!

What’s the most unusual design in the latest collection?
The collection has been put together with a wide array of Kilims and Ikats (an ancient kind of weave) from Saudi Arabia, Turkmenistan, Turkey, Jordan; while the chiffons, silks and crepes give it a luxury and elegant feel. The Oasis Collection offers numerous options – from the Daffa (abaya on the head) to wrap-around belted ones or free-flowing loose ones, thus extending a multitude of choices. I have five distinguished lines actually, Comfy, Retro, Vintage, Glitzy, and Glamour.

Which abayas are most popular this season?
For summer we had a lot of vibrant colours, lively abayas. For fall/winter, a lot of jewel tones and drapery.

What are your favorite ways to accessorise an abaya?
I love accessorising the abaya in many ways, depending on the look, cut and colour. I love adding mobile holder bags, traditional necklaces, bracelets, portable sleeves, portable tasselled cuffs, not forgetting the bag and shoes! That is why I design many of my pieces to show off these accessories without too much effort.

What kind of woman do you picture wearing your abayas?
When I design, I love keeping women of different cultures, work backgrounds and personalities in mind. Therefore I picture something for a mother who’d like to go out with her kids, a working lady, a traveller, a socialite. I love designing for all ages and lifestyles.

What will you be wearing this Ramadan and why?
In Ramadan, I love going back to traditional abayas with a heritage feel. It’s all about vintage for me.

Do older or younger women tend to gravitate more towards your designs?
I actually have women of all sort of different ages wearing my abayas, from teenagers up to grandmothers. It’s the reason I portray a variety of cuts and the reason I design on the basis of different personalities. But everything I’d design would definitely be something I’d wear too. Actually, I am in the process of releasing a new ready-to-wear line for the young called Spades by Queen of Spades – the line will be introduced in September 2011.
Queen of Spades, Galleries Lafayette, Dubai Mall (04 339 9933). www.queenodspadesstore.com.

Lamya Abedin’s top five tips for looking great in an abaya

1 It’s all about confidence.

2 Choose your colours wisely.

3 Wear the appropriate abaya for different places.

4 Accessorise without overdoing it.

5 Be unique, but be yourself.