Stand up paddling, for the uninitiated, involves standing on what looks like an oversized surfboard and paddling yourself along. Tell us about the board you designed with Juan K, the mastermind behind Puma’s Mar Mostro boat.
Yes, Juan K and I made a board together. He designed the boat and thought it would be nice not to change it very much, just really go from the boat technology and parallel its design. My main concern was making it something that we could actually stand on. Our boards are surfboards, I mean yeah, we’re changing the designs and making the boards for racing in flat water but it all stems from surfing.
You were instrumental in bringing stand up paddling back in fashion. What inspired that?
I’d probably say boredom. I did a bunch of different things and you know you get to a certain level with each one and reach a plateau, so I was looking for a new activity. Also after having children I wanted to bring them surfing on these big boards with me and so I started riding these big boards and then you want to learn how to surf them so you can take your children on them and kind of have control.
You’re most famous for big wave surfing – what goes through your mind when you’re surfing one of those giant waves?
Well, it demands total focus. It’s a game of improv and you’re going faster than you’ve been in your life. You have to be ready for anything because, you know, every ride’s different. Once you’re released onto a wave and you’re going down it and you’re being consumed by it there’s nothing quite like the experience – it’d be like riding an avalanche. Seconds become minutes or hours or days and time stands still; there is no beginning and no end, just a continuation of your next ride…
How would you feel if your daughters wanted to get into big wave surfing?
I might have to close my eyes when they do it, but I wouldn’t get in their way if they were drawn to it!
What would be your top tips for someone who wants to try out paddleboarding for the first time?
The most important thing is to have fun. When you want to stand up, a bit like a bicycle, momentum is your friend. I think everybody has a tendency to think they’re going to stand there and balance, but you need movement so the most important thing is to move and get going.
You can try stand up paddling yourself for free at The VOR Racing Village beach, 11am-5pm until January 14.
