Time Out Easter Island guide

About half the size of the Isle of Wight and over 3,500km from land – more than the distance from Abu Dhabi to Athens – Easter Island, or Rapa Nui to give it its proper name, is an almost certain entry on most people’s Places I’d Love To See list. Made famous by the enormous stone statues, called moai, that were carved from volcanic rock over 1,300 years ago – it has the same mystical magnetism that radiates from Stonehenge in the UK. These giant, granite guardians stand over the island, seemingly safeguarding its inhabitants.

The small, almost equilaterally-shaped island is rich with history. More than 1,000 years ago, Polynesian explorers travelled vast distances across the South Pacific and found their way to this tiny, remote place. Eventually, the island was ‘discovered’ by the Dutch on Easter Sunday in 1722 and after centuries of slavery and exploitation, it’s now a part of Chile and the native culture is returning.

The population itself numbers under 4,500 and is roughly divided into two: native Rapa Nui and those who have left behind the big city lifestyle of places like Santiago and have chosen a back-to-basics existence on this peaceful volcanic plateau. The only pocket of civilisation is a little town called Hanga Roa. Here the locals go about their daily business at a very gentle pace, catching up on a little grocery shopping or perhaps making their weekly connection to the rest of the world in one of the few establishments with internet access.

In fact, most of the day-to-day activity you’ll see is geared in some way around the tourist industry, with many visitors either sauntering around the town, gathering at the quaint harbour, waiting to soak up the breathtaking coastline from the sea, or even from underwater.

Only during February does Rapa Nui feel a little full. This is the time of the Tapati Rapa Nui, a two-week long festival that includes a spectacular series of traditional music, dance, cultural and sports events around the island and is the most popular attraction in the annual tourist calendar. Two years ago, the island had an unprecedented influx of visitors who gathered to watch a very rare solar eclipse, an event that hadn’t happened on the island since AD 591 – before the first moai statues appeared. Granted the solar eclipse is an isolated incident, but the numbers visiting Rapa Nui each year are steadily increasing. Built to service this growing industry, the Explora (+56 2 395 2801) was the first of the new modern hotels on the island. Only completed a few years ago, it’s been constructed solely from local materials such as volcanic rock and black pine on a site that’s inappropriate for agriculture and has no archaeological remains, plus it proudly boasts Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certification from the US Green Building Council.
It might not be the cheapest hotel you’ve stayed at, rates start at Dhs8,500 per person for a three-day minimum stay, but it will certainly be the most memorable. The interior design is stunning and every one of the 30 organic-themed bedrooms has a magnificent ocean view. Rates are also inclusive of all meals, all drinks, morning and afternoon organised excursions and airport transfers.

The tours provided by the Explora are probably the best way to see the island, because this prevents any potential headache of trying to arrange something upon arrival. Added to which, you’ll be accompanied by a native Rapa Nui tour guide, armed with an infinite knowledge of the island and its history, able to answer any questions you care to ask. Comfortable walking shoes are essential because the tours consist of a series of day-long hikes around the spectacular sights of the island.

The main tours include the Rano Kau crater – the largest of the three volcanoes that formed Rapa Nui and almost a mile across with a fresh water lake at its centre, its grassy slopes are littered with hundreds of abandoned moai; the Ahu Tongariki – the largest of all the moai platforms, each called an Ahu, with 15 colossal statues restored after a tsunami back in 1960; and the Ahu Nau Nau on the picturesque Anakena beach – where four of the seven restored figures have what are called Pukao topknots, or head-dresses, which were added to give an even greater sense of grandiose to the giant, stern-faced statues.
A multitude of other activities are also on offer, aside from those organised by the hotels. It is possible to hire a car or four-wheel drive, and some visitors do, but frankly it really isn’t necessary. The best of the island is only accessible by hiking and a small number of taxis roam the streets of Hanga Roa at night, providing a more-than-adequate service.

Several diving centres provide trips out to select spots with beautiful coral reefs and all levels of experience are catered for, from beginner to those who might have their PADI certificate. One of the more established is the Mike Rapu Diving Centre, the owner of which is something of a celebrity on the island. Not only is he one of the most successful and respected native Rapa Nui businessmen, but he also held the South American record for free diving for a number of years.

The Explora isn’t the biggest hotel on the island, it has been dwarfed by another new build constructed on the cliff top overlooking both the town and a coastline spot where the waves crash spectacularly against the rocky cliffs. The Hangaroa Eco Village & Spa (+56 2 957 0300) is more of a self-contained settlement than a conventional hotel. Within the complex is a pool, museum, spa, boutique, movie theatre, restaurants and bars and, of course, the 75 rooms. Completed at the end of last year, this too has received LEED certification and the tourist board are keen to highlight that much of the energy used comes from turbines and solar panels, all hotel cuisine features indigenous ingredients and the local population make up the majority of the staff.

The Rapa Nui are extremely passionate about their island and their heritage. Many put on evening performances at select venues to small groups of tourists, proudly demonstrating traditional rituals and culture over a customary dinner cooked using ancient methods. During a stay it’s imperative to take in at least one show. One of the best is called Te Ra’ai at the Restaurant Etnico Rapa Nui (+56 32 255 1460). Performances here are only three times a week, but a chance to watch the Hoko tribal war dance, which has an understandable similarity to its Maori equivalent, should not be missed.

There are a number of places to eat in town should you feel the urge to explore and all the food is supplied locally. Fish features prominently on the menu as the island is home to more than 100 species. The big establishments will take credit cards, but that’s about it. The accepted local currencies are US Dollars and Chilean Pesos and there are a couple of ATMs in town. Don’t expect much in the way of nightlife because Hanga Roa falls asleep quite early. In addition, try to avoid a Sunday in your visit, this is the native population’s personal day; no tours will run on this day and nothing will be open.

Getting there from the UAE is no mean feat, it is after all the most remote inhabited island on Earth and, with stopovers, you are looking at 35+ hours of travelling. Whatever route you chose, the principle place to aim for is the capital city Santiago in Chile, and from here it’s possible to get a flight to Rapa Nui.