Gothenburg travel guide

Gothenburg is Sweden’s second-biggest city in terms of population, but this former ship-building town is still only home to a meagre 550,000 people, with the tightly clustered cobbled streets and squares of the city centre most efficiently – and enjoyably – traversed on foot. But despite its diminutive size, Gothenburg boasts an enviable portfolio of urban distractions, with all the bistros and boutiques you’d expect of the world’s more populous cities.

Best of all, though, is the fact that, like the city itself, a great deal of Gothenburg’s coolest hangouts have managed to remain under the radar. You know that brilliantly quirky secret café/furniture shop/takeaway stand you stumbled across in London/New York/Paris? Imagine a city stuffed with all of these and more, minus the vibe-squashing hordes of tourists, and you’re some way to understanding the appeal of what could well be Europe’s most overlooked city-break destination.

Parks and day trips
As well as helping you get to grips with the city’s geography, taking a boat tour is a great way to see the headline sights all at once. Starting from Kungsportsplatsen Square on the main canal, the tours take place on the half-hour during the warmer months, and admission is free with the Gothenburg city card – an all-in-one pass that also grants admission to major museums and unlimited use of trams, buses and ferries.

Available from tourist information points and most hotels, the cards cost approximately Dhs145 for 24 hours, about Dhs204 for 48 hours or around Dhs256 for 72 hours.

Gothenburg’s network of Styr & Ställ rental bikes is also well worth making use of. Three days’ access costs about Dhs5, with trips of half an hour or less free of charge. Better still, with side streets quiet and most major roads sporting dedicated cycle paths, getting around is simple and safe.

First on your two-wheeled tour should be Slottsskogen, a 338-acre park to the south where, alongside numerous makeshift barbecue parties, you’ll find sports facilities, a small zoo and, every August, Way Out West festival, which was headlined this year by Blur, The Black Keys and Bon Iver. The bikes will also take you out to Liseberg, a small-ish theme park in the south-west that’s home to four rollercoasters, including Balder – a ride that’s twice been named the best wooden-tracked ’coaster in the world. Entrance to the park is covered by the city card, but once inside you’ll need to buy tickets for the individual attractions.

If you’ve the time to spare, an afternoon island-hopping around Gothenburg’s southern archipelago is also well worth doing. Starting from the centre of town, take the number 11 tram out to the port town of Salthomen at the very end of the line – a journey that takes around 20 minutes. From here, ferries stop at 11 different islands, which mainly serve as summer retreats for Gothenburgers seeking an even more chilled-out vibe than that offered by the mainland. A leisurely walk through car-less, hilly Styrsö – all pastel-hued wooden houses and towering firs – will get the blood pumping, while the charming little inn on Brannö is best for those who prefer to take their lungfuls of fresh Scandinavian air with coffee and cake. Grab a ferry timetable before you board at Salthomen, though, else you could find yourself stranded.

Shopping
For fashion and homewares, head to Vallgatan where, among other Swedish brands, you’ll find the flagship outlet of Nudie Jeans, (Vallgatan 15, +46 3160 9360), a Gothenburg-born denim brand launched by former Levi’s designer Maria Erixon. Adjoining street Magasinsgatan, meanwhile, is best for vintage fashion, with Miss Ragtime (Magasinsgatan 15, +46 3177 40232) and Pop Boutique (Magasinsgatan 22, +46 3115 1555) turning generations-old cast-offs into chic, one-off pieces.

Those into second-hand goods should also check out Kommersen Loppmarknad (Första Långgatan 27, +46 3182 8282), the city’s biggest flea market, located within a street art-covered warehouse at the west end of Första Långgatan. Stock can be hit-and-miss, with the market’s 100 or so tables holding everything from VHS tapes and analogue cameras to jewellery and T-shirts, so arrive with an open mind and be prepared to dig for your treasure.

At the other end of the scale, uniquely Swedish department store NK, (Östra Hamngatan 42, +46 3171 01000) which has a sister store in Stockholm, is the go-to place for high fashion, furnishings and cosmetics.

Food and restaurants
Given the proximity of their city to the sea, it’s hardly surprising that Gothenburgers take their seafood seriously. Located on the north side of the main canal, the heaving ice counters of Feskekôrka (literally ‘fish church’) still pull in the crowds, many of whom also stop by for a bite at on-site eatery Restaurant Gabriel (+46 3113 9051). The compact spot specialises in simple, fuss-free dishes where the fish is always the star – try the crispy fried plaice with mushrooms for a light but satisfying lunch.

For great vegetarian food, Hagabion (Linnégatan 21, +46 3142 8810) offers a short menu of meat-and-fish-free dishes including Thai red curry and a decadently creamy mushroom tortellini.

Another popular spot for lunch is Saluhall Briggen (Nordhemsgatan 28, +46 3143 3323) in Linné, which – until renovation work on the main food hall in Kungstorget is finished, at least – is the best place in town to pick up freshly baked bread, salads and meats. With coffee and pastry in the mix, it’s also a popular spot for fika – a uniquely Swedish gastronomic phenomenon that translates roughly as ‘meeting with friends for coffee, cinnamon rolls and a good old gossip’.

For more adventurous fika folk, there’s even a café dedicated to helping the city brush up on its language skills. Sprakcafeet (Esperantoplatsen 7, +46 3177 42150) runs informal theme nights, where those looking to practise everything from French to Chinese can turn up and share a coffee with like-minded linguists. Attendees are obliged to spend at least Dhs25 in the café, but that’s still a lot cheaper than formal tuition.

Galleries and museums
Given that the city’s artsy vibe is more Banksy than Botticelli, it’s reassuring to discover that Gothenburg still has plenty of respect for the masters. Gothenburg Museum of Art (Götaplatsen, +46 3136 83500) is home to works by A-listers as mighty as Van Gogh, Monet and Munch, with many special exhibitions scheduled throughout the year.

The centrally located Design Museum (Vasagatan 37-39, +46 3136 83150) is also worth visiting. Exhibits are arranged over three floors, with ancient Japanese and Chinese arts and crafts giving way to 20th century Swedish homewares, iconic electronics and fashion.

But if you’re travelling in the company of young folk needing a bit more stimulation, try the Universeum (Södra vägen 50, +46 3133 56414) – Scandinavia’s biggest science museum and nirvana for curious kids. As well as a huge aquarium and reptile zoo, hands-on exhibits include ‘pulse’ (which teaches science through sport), plus a rudimentary forensics lab and a floor dedicated to astronomy, which includes a replica space capsule and physical training equipment similar to that used by real astronauts.