Big piles of sand may not immediately seem reason enough to drive hours across the UAE. The grainy yellow stuff is rather prevalent, after all. From the building sites of Abu Dhabi to the beaches of Fujairah (and the shoes of anyone that steps out of a marble-floored mall), it’s pretty hard to avoid.
But the sands of Liwa are different. These gargantuan shifting mounds make the likes of Big Red in Dubai, or the dunes of Umm Al Quwain look pitiful and insignificant. While most desert excursions in the rest of the UAE only leave you 20 minutes from Tarmac and building sites, the vastness of Liwa’s dunes can give a real sense of isolation. The Empty Quarter (Rub’ al Khali) region that it borders is a desert larger than the combined size of France, Belgium and the Netherlands. Out in the deepest desert, dunes can top 300m.
While the peaceful sands are the draw here, there are other points to visit before you head off-road. Liwa’s 180km long crescent of oases is dotted with freshwater pools and date plantations, and was the traditional home to the Bani Yas tribe; the Bedouin ancestors of Abu Dhabi’s ruling family. Visit the villages along the crescent, and the fort and oasis at Qatuf. Explorer Wilfred Thesiger camped here in 1947, and the wells that he mentions in his book Arabian Sands still exist by the mosque.
But the desert is the big pull, and to properly explore (and camp), you’ll need a convoy of at least three 4x4s and plenty of kit. Along with any camping gear and food, bring more water than you can imagine using. Important technical bits include the following in each car: a GPS system, detailed maps, tow belt, shovel, spare wheel, planks of wood (for leverage under wheels if you get stuck), first-aid kit, map and two fully charged mobile phones. You’ll also need to deflate your tyres to around 18psi for better grip on the sand.
Some of the most popular spots (and easiest to access) can be found on the road to Moreeb Hill. To find this, follow directions for the Liwa Hotel. Instead of turning left up to the hotel, carry on until you reach a roundabout. Turn left here. At the next roundabout bear right, and at the following roundabout, turn left. This is the snaking, Tarmac road to Moreeb. There are various tracks off this, but perhaps the easiest to find is on your right, after about 14km. Fans of Google Earth can put in the coordinates latitude 23° 1’11.29”N, longitude 53°44’51.66”E. Be aware though, that to the side of this track are salt flats, which it can be very easy for cars to sink into. If you do go off-road, we’d recommend buying a detailed map before you go. But, getting into the complete isolation of this area, witnessing the brightness of the stars and the peace of a desert night, makes all the logistical efforts utterly worthwhile.
Moreeb Hill itself can be found at 22°58’34.94”N, 53°47’14.70”E and isn’t more than 30 seconds from a road. It’s 358ft tall and hosts the annual Moreeb Dune Championship, a scramble up the 45-degree slope in quads, bikes and souped-up 4x4s. The record from bottom to top stands at 12 seconds, but drivers of regular 4x4s are unlikely to make it half way.
If that sounds a tad too intimidating, more sedate camel and horse treks can be organised through the Liwa Hotel (02 882 2000) at dawn and dusk, and the usual desert safaris are offered by tour firms. But that doesn’t sound anywhere near as much fun.
Getting there
From Abu Dhabi, head south through Mussafah on the Abu Dhabi-Al Ain truck road until you reach route 11. Head towards Jebel Dhana for almost 80km, turning off just past a petrol station, and following signs to Madinat Zayed. After around 63km you’ll come in to Liwa. Turn right for the Liwa hotel, Qatuf and Moreeb Hill.
Where to stay
If it’s too hot for camping in the dunes, there are currently two options: Liwa Hotel (02 882 2000) is a bog-standard four star, distinguished by its majestic position on the very edge of the Empty Quarter; for something a little more traditional, try the Liwa Rest House (02 882 2075). Run by the government, this is a popular location, so it’s advisable to book well in advance.
Coming soon
Qasr Al Sarab will be a fancy desert retreat along the lines of Bab al Shams and Al Maha over in Dubai. It’s due to open in the Empty Quarter in 2009, with 150 rooms, 60 villas, a spa and an observatory. Land has also been allocated for two new hotels in Madinat Zayed, the main town on the road south from the E11.
