The past
Believe it or not, Abu Dhabi wasn’t always a bustling metropolis brimming with five-star hotels and luxury sports cars. In fact, as recently as 1950 you could fully expect to catch a troupe of camels ambling along Khalifa Street, grunting noisily as they foraged for snacks. Except that, of course, Khalifa Street wasn’t actually there – just dusty plains of sand as far as the eye could see, plus the odd fort. Reckon we’re making all of it up? Get down to the Heritage Village (Breakwater Road, next to the big flagpole) and you’ll find stacks of artefacts and photographs from the capital’s past which, next to the skyscrapers and shopping malls, have been known to loosen onlookers’ jaws at 30 paces.
Just down the road, within Marina Mall, a restaurant called Tiara (accessed via a lift that takes you to the very top of the mall’s protruding tower) is another unlikely place to catch a glimpse of Abu Dhabi’s humble beginnings. While on one side you’ve got stunning panoramic vistas of a 21st century urban hub, on the other you’ll see a neatly hung collection of photographs depicting scenes from the city’s formative years. And the best part? Since it’s a revolving restaurant, you don’t even need to stand up to see them all – simply enjoy a snack be charmed by the nostalgic slideshow.
The present
Though it’s admittedly got a long way to go before it can rival the likes of Paris and London, the city’s arts scene is coming along nicely, with local and expat artists steadily picking up international recognition. For a taste of their output, head to the Ghaf and Salwa Zeidan galleries – situated just a few doors apart on Khaleej Al Arabi Street. Emirati artist Fatema Al Mazroui, whose work is often exhibited at the latter, is one of the UAE’s most gifted emerging talents; she explores the relationship between femininity and Islam through her intriguing mixed-media collages, which have drawn praise across the Middle East and even caught the attention of legendary British auction house Christie’s. The Ghaf, meanwhile, holds regular group and solo exhibitions, where works range from digital portraits to abstract sculpture. Right now, though, it’s currently holding its annual Ramadan Art Bazaar, where pieces by many renowned Abu Dhabi creatives (including gallery owner Jalal Luqman) can be picked up at a fraction of the cost of their usual asking price. Anybody keen to invest in local art is advised to head down immediately, especially since, considering the plans for the capital’s cultural future it could turn out to be a very sound investment indeed…
The future
Just as the old photographs at the Heritage Village make today’s city look like something out of a science fiction epic, plans for Abu Dhabi’s ‘2030 Vision’ make it look like a shabby, out-dated hamlet. Intrigued? Get over to Manarat Al Saadiyat on Saadiyat Island and prepare to be gently amazed. The gallery itself is one of the first buildings within the city’s planned cultural district, while The Saadiyat Story – the exhibition within – provides an in-depth look at the projects set to surround it. Scores of top-end hotel aside, the most impressive exhibits concern the city’s very own Guggenheim and Louvre outposts, designed respectively by Frank Gehry and Jean Nouvel. They’re not expected to be completed until 2013, but in the meantime, the scale models, artists’ impressions and interactive videos are incredibly fascinating to behold.
