Honey
The most amazing place we discovered was Bee Kingdom (02 666 8988) on the corner of 6th and 7th street in Khalidaya. Owner Abdul has had the shop since 1989, he told us, and inside is a haven to all things glucose. Everything from beekeeping equipment to raw honeycomb and (bizarrely) ‘honey toothpaste’ is on show. In the corner sits a small glass lab for checking nutrients and fructose levels, while stacking the shelves are long-necked jars of honeys from Al Ain, Ras Al Khaimah and Oman. The rose-red ones are from the winter bees (a sharp sweetness), we’re told; the deep black comes from summer stock (a richer, fruitier honey). Each is around Dhs200 per kilogram, but the prize is surely the famous Yemeni honey, which begins at a mere Dhs200 and goes up to Dhs3,500. It is a thick, strong golden syrup and utterly decadent. A must try.
Organic
The Eat Smart Market (02 634 6624) above the café in the Fotouh Al Khair Centre (or M&S building to most) is a point of call for all organic enthusiasts. At first sight, the litany of popular brand detergents and toothpastes filling the shelves might have you scratching your head, but look closer and you’ll soon discover an array of organic pastas, flours, fruits and veg. Towards the back wall, plastic dispensers of organic rice, nuts, beans and lentils ups the ‘specialist’ ante, and a wealth of more unusual products (we love their Japanese sea vegetable chips) makes it a must.
Tea and coffee
Vivel Patisserie (02 666 7338), opposite Khalidaya Garden, is probably the best known spot for specialist brews in the capital. Its catalogue of loose-leaf white, black and green teas are epic, lined up in delicate black tins along the back shelves. Cylon, Assam, Darleejeling… the list is extensive; it also doubles as a pretty good café and sweet shop too. Jellies, lukoms, marzipan and macaroons scatter the glass cases alongside traditional Arabic sweets (usually involving chickpeas in some way). Alternatively, next to the Lebanese Flower in Khalidaya is Maatouk (02 666 6824). Only a short walk away, the scent of freshly ground Turkish and American coffees percolates in the atmosphere and the old-world brass grinder adds to the effect. It’s a pretty good chocolaterie too, and a good spot to find jars of fresh tamarind and rosewater syrup
(a must in Arabic baking).
The grocers
Jones the Grocer (02 443 8762) is the city’s latest gourmet food store. A little out on a limb, you’ll need to scour the corner of 4th and 15th street (in the cluster opposite Ministry of Culture) to find it, but it’s well worth the struggle. It’s the sort of fine food store rarely seen in the capital, with Prestat chocolate, caviar and Jones’ triple berry jam delighting the dinner party set. We go for the cheese room, though – any excuse for some truffle brie and a knob of 24-month grana padano.
Meat and fish
Never eaten camel? There are a fair few butcheries in the city who specialise in this Arabic speciality, but do as the locals do and head to the Madinat Zayed Market (opposite the Gold Souk). The butchery on the right is the only one that sells camel – take our word for it because the sign is written in Arabic – and a kilo of camel meat here sets you back about Dhs16. Elsewhere, for specialist meats, it’s worth checking out the Ridley brothers’ Wagonwheel Butchery (050 329 6683). They originally started making African sausage in their kitchen because they couldn’t find it in the city; now they have their own shop at Zayed Port Market selling boerwars, droëwors and even camel biltong. While, for fresh fish, the nearby Al Meena fish souk (or the branch of the Fisherman’s Co-op at Zayed Market) is a given. The bidding starts at 4.30am, with most of the fish here sold by late morning, although it’s open until 5pm. For fresh hammour at around Dhs45 per kilo, it’s irresistible.
The Souk
There are plenty of chocolateries in the city, but the Qaryat Al Beri Souk is home to a couple of star offerings in the shape of the more traditional Nougatini and its extravagant near neighbour La Choco. If you’ve ever wondered what a chocolate chess board looks like (including finely sculpted chocky chess pieces), look no further. They also run chocolate cookery classes for the truly obsessed (next one on Nov 7, 3.30pm for Dhs150. Book on 02 509 8555). Meanwhile, the Abela deli is also well worth visiting. It’s an extension of the supermarket in Khalidiya, with good fresh bread on offer, organic veg and some fine French cheeses.
