An estimated 450,000 Filipino expats are currently living in the UAE, and that’s a lot of homesick mouths to feed. Luckily, Abu Dhabi’s backstreets are crammed with colourful, bustling places serving up the fried rice, stews, noodles and grills that form the foundation of Filipino cuisine. Much of it, many Filipinos will admit, is an extremely acquired taste. But whether you’re a Kabayan or not, with the country’s 113th Independence Day on this week, now’s the perfect time to give Thai and Chinese a rest and sample some Filipino fare.
Adobo
What is it? You’ll find this concoction of on-the-bone chicken slow-cooked in vinegar, oil and garlic on the menu in every Filipino joint from here to Manila. In terms of its origins, adobo is a joint venture between Filipino natives and their former Spanish occupiers, taking its name from the Spanish word for ‘marinade’. As one of the most established pillars of Filipino cuisine, it’s a highly adaptable dish – expect to see everything from chopped vegetables to pineapple added into the mix.
Where to get it: Oriental Korner, located next to Al Mariah Mall, does a fine rendition of this homely favourite, which comes smothered in rich, salty gravy. Since it’s massively popular with locals, non-Filipino faces will turn heads as they walk through the door. Once you are seated, however, staff are welcoming and happy to recommend dishes for those new to Filipino food.
Pancit palabok
What is it? A simple and extremely popular noodle dish, featuring peppery anaatto seeds and a topping of spring onions and hard-boiled egg. While many dishes in Filipino cuisine are influenced by its former Spanish occupation, noodles came to the country from China, and have inherited the superstitions attached to them; Filipino noodles are often said to represent a long and prosperous life, and are therefore often served on birthdays and never cut short.
Where to get it: Goto King is a big hit with the local Filipino community, thanks to a kitsch interior sporting heart-shaped seats and televisions screening noisy Pinoy game shows. They also rustle up a fine bowl of noodles, steeped in a tangy sauce and rounded off with the freshest of toppings.
Bistek tagalog
What is it? While neighbouring nations trouble themselves with long lists of ingredients and complex combinations of spices, many of the most popular Filipino dishes are extremely basic. This simple dish of slow-cooked strips of sirloin beef cooked in soy sauce and calamansi juice (a lemon-like citrus fruit native to the Philippines) is a perfect case in point. And, since it’s often rustled up as part of special Independence Day celebration meals, expect the strong, meaty aroma to be wafting through the city’s streets any day now.
Where to get it: Not been invited to any Independence Day parties? Don’t worry – grab a table at Philippine House on Najda Street, and they’ll school you in the ways of this sweet ’n’ salty dish. The restaurant may look a bit fast foody, but amid the buzz you’ll find some of the best Pinoy grub in the city.
Bibingka
What is it? Given that the Filipino palate has a thing for mixing sweet and salty flavours, desserts often include some unconventional combinations. Bibingka – a sweet, spongy cake make from rice and coconut milk – is a popular way to round off a meal, usually topped with slices of salted duck egg and baked in a banana leaf casing. Like many cakes, though, there’s no exact science to bibingka, so you’ll find restaurants incorporating fruits, chocolate and other more western-friendly flavours into their recipes.
Where to get it: Kamayan Barrio Fiesta (also just off Najda Street) does a decent line in these tasty desserts. And it’s worth filling up on the hot food, too. Since it all comes spooned out of simmering buffet trays the quality may not be the best, but at Dhs15 for a small mountain of stew spooned over soft, steamed rice, you really can’t complain.
Balut
What is it? One for stronger stomachs only, balut is a street snack consisting of a fertilised duck or chicken egg that’s boiled, cracked open and served in the shell. It may not sound appealing, and it certainly doesn’t look it (tap it into Google Images if you dare), but Filipino men swear by it after a night on the sauce. Think of it as a smaller, rounder doner kebab. Only with the slight crunch of bones and the odd feather.
Where to get it: We’re afraid you’ll have to look beyond Abu Dhabi for this one. Although, from the first-hand accounts we’ve heard, that may be for the best.
The History
Of course, digging into a tasty plate of pancit palabok without understanding why everyone’s celebrating just wouldn’t be right. So for those whose Philippine history isn’t up to scratch, here’s what all the fuss is about…
Having been ruled by the Spanish since the 16th century, the Philippines declared its independence on June 12, 1898 following a coup led by General Emilio Aguinaldo. However, since the nation had been handed over to the US in the same year, the move wasn’t recognised by either Spain or the States until July 4, 1946. This date was then declared as Philippine Independence Day and was celebrated accordingly until, in 1964, historians and politicians managed to persuade Diosdado Macapagal (the then president) to shift it back to June 12, which had, until then, simply been known as ‘Flag Day’. So now you know.
