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Marco Pierre White in Abu Dhabi

Jeffery Brothers on the MPW Steakhouse in Abu Dhabi

With the long awaited Titanic recently opened in Dubai, marking Marco Pierre White’s second business venture in the UAE, we revisit the award-winning restaurant which started it all. Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill at the Fairmont Bab Al Bahr opened in 2009, this year marks it’s third birthday and it still tops our list of Abu Dhabi’s best from steak to service.

On our most recent visit to Marco Pierre White, we found ourselves contemplating sauce. The majority of the time, people (in general, and we in particular) tend to douse their food in various sauces and condiments that restaurants make available, in the hopes of adding excitement to bland or boring food. At Marco Pierre White, sauce is not there to improve but to complement, and we noticed this with much delight through all of our courses.

The seared scallops and lobster starter, recommended by our waiter, was tender and beautifully cooked to retain that satisfying chewiness. It was accompanied by a roasted cauliflower puree and a mushroom cream, which nearly had us licking our plate when all the seafood was gone. Our second starter, the fresh coriander crusted tuna, consisted of cubes of the finest raw fish which married so well with the mango salsa and scallion mayonnaise that came with it.

Our main was a similar story. The Australian Wagyu ribeye cooked to medium was such a fantastic cut of marbled meat that the slightly rare center melted in the mouth like sashimi. On its own it was a flavorsome and juicy steak that was destined to induce salivation when boasted about in the weeks to come. When drizzled with the rich truffle cream sauce, the superior experience turned into a thing that legends are made of.

Following our unparalleled evening of sheer decadence (which took a well deserved chunk out of our monthly salary) we caught up with chef Jeffery Brothers. This is the man Marco Pierre White entrusted his Fairmont outlet too this time last year, and with good reason.

Have you worked or trained with Marco before?
I haven’t had the opportunity to train with Marco Pierre White prior to becoming chef de cuisine, but I worked extensively with the award winning culinary team at the Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, including executive chef John Cordeaux and the chef de cuisine before me – Trevor McLeod. This training period ensured that there was a smooth transition as I took over the kitchen, and that it was keeping in line with Marco’s vision of the restaurant, his first in the region.

Has the menu changed much since the restaurant first opened?
The menu has kept to its original form as offering innovative grill cuisine and classic British favourites. Over the past three years there have been some changes, which is completely natural and healthy for any restaurant, as we gauge what appeals to our guests and to the residents in Abu Dhabi. We’ve introduced seasonal menus, a Sunday roast night, and have added newer cuts of beef from Canada, as well as organic produce from a local supplier. We’re truly embracing the ‘farm to fork’ philosophy that is taking a foothold in the UAE with local produce and local farmers.

We understand you now share a kitchen with Chameleon Bar, do you find this affects your work, or the general atmosphere of the restaurant?
That’s a bit of a misconception because we have always had the same culinary team providing for both Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill and Chameleon. We found the balance quickly in servicing both areas. It can be demanding, especially on a busy night, but we have worked hard to ensure that our product delivery and service is seamless.

How often does Marco visit or check up on you guys?
The great thing about Marco as a celebrated chef, and now as a renowned restaurateur, is that he appreciates what our brand has to offer in terms of culinary excellence and service, and he empowers us to execute this to the fullest. He also entrusts us to make changes that would better appeal to our guests while remaining true to the original concept. It’s not a matter of check-ups or visits, because we have the ability to bring his vision to life with our creative interpretations as the flagship Marco Pierre White restaurant in the Middle East.
Open daily 7pm-1am. Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill, Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Between the Bridges (02 654 3333).