As a relatively new country, the United Arab Emirates has been in a hurry to develop since its inauguration in 1971 and the city of Abu Dhabi, in particular, has taken great strides over the past decade. With the Corniche being continually renovated and the city skyline undergoing a regular metamorphosis thanks to continual construction, so too has the restaurant scene in the city been affected.
We spoke to some venues that have been open for over a decade about how the evolving city has impacted their business. Some have completely renovated their interior, while others have chosen to keep it the same. But what became immediately apparent is that the changing demographic in the city has resulted in changes to their menus.
With an increasing number of expats relocating here each year, it is perhaps understandable that many places have had to accommodate in order to be the driving force in the food and beverage market.
Bu Tafish
This quirkily named restaurant is one of the oldest in the capital, having opened its doors in 1986, and the story behind how it first came into existence is life-affirming.
We spoke to Wael al Tamini, the son of Redwan, who originally founded the place. The story goes that Redwan used to sell simple food items and sodas in a venue that he hand-built himself. One day, the late President and founder of the United Arab Emirates, His Highness Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahayan, was passing by the store and so Redwan offered him a soda. At the time, Redwan’s store didn’t have electricity, so the drink offered was warm. When HH Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahayan inquired into the reason for being offered a lukewarm beverage, he discovered that the municipality hadn’t granted Redwan the papers to have electricity at his venue. Within three days, this was amended and Bu Tafish has thrived since, opening stores all over the country.
‘We had to introduce new dishes over the years, especially as there are new foreigners in the city with many different tastes,’ says Wael about the changes to the city and how it has affected their (primarily seafood) menu. ‘For example, we introduced the Tajjen fish, the mixed seafood platter and the supreme sea bream. But we still have many of the original dishes, and we even have some customers that have
been coming to the restaurant since 1986, although now they come with their families.’
Located on Hamdan Street in the Tourist Club Area (02 677 7780) and Khalifa City A (02 556 5477).
Al Fanar
The city’s first revolving roof top restaurant first opened to the public in 1996. The name means lighthouse in Arabic and the building’s height is another reason for the title.
Le Royal Méridien’s Elise Sarkis has personally seen the city change over the past 20 years. ‘Back then it was one of the highest buildings along the Corniche and the sea was a mere 30 metres away,’ she says. ‘So the name was very apt. Sitting in Al Fanar back then offered commanding, uninterrupted views over 360° of the sea and the islands, Ras al Akhdar which is the area beyond Emirates Palace, as well as the city as far as Airport Road. Now the views are somewhat interrupted by the neighbouring high rises.
But the charm is that at night you see 360° of illuminated background because of all the new developments on the extended Corniche as well as on the “waters”, while back then for half the year round diners used to be facing the sea which was completely dark at night.’
When asked about the changing menu, Elise informs us that it is standard to keep revisiting the food choices they serve. ‘But it’s certainly been affected by the large numbers of expatriates,’ she adds.
Located in Le Royal Méridien, (02 695 0490).
Al Sayad Marine Restaurant & Grills
A little inconspicuous shop located in the Mina, this seafood restaurant has been going for more than 12 years. Stepping into the place, it appears as though the décor hasn’t changed since the opening, but once you sample the food, you can understand why. This is clearly not a place one visits for the ambiance. ‘People have been coming here from the start for delicious fresh fish, and that is why they still come,’ says Ali Sammach, who has been floor manager since the venue opened. ‘But we also mostly work with takeout orders’.
The restaurant has a large kitchen but a small seating area for just ten people. Since they opened, the place has prided itself on serving up fresh catches of the day, a tradition that hasn’t been broken in one of the few restaurants in Abu Dhabi without a menu. A particularly popular dish that has been famous since the beginning is the ‘Speciale’, featuring fish caught in Ras Al Khaimah and grilled with a very spicy dressing.
‘I don’t think we will change the place,’ smiles Ali. ‘As long as customers are still coming and people are happy.’
Located in the Mina port area, Abu Dhabi (02 673 3711).
