What’s so special about Embassy?
It’s in a great location, has good food, a nice crowd and you have the ability to stay and enjoy something else after you have finished dining. Why go on somewhere else when you can have all your needs served here?
Mark Fuller and Garry Hollihead [brand co-owners] have now left Embassy. Why have you stayed?
Why would I not stay? It’s not everyday that you get to work in such a prestigious establishment as the Emirates Palace, the owners are bright, young, prominent people in the UAE and the future looks good.
How much is Garry Hollihead’s stamp still on the Embassy menu?
I have known Garry for a long time and worked with him on several occasions, so there will always be elements of his thinking in what I do. I see this as positive, he’s a very talented chef.
When we spoke to Garry, he had concerns about the standard of produce on the menu and assembling a competent staff. Do you have the same reservations?
When I first arrived I was petrified, but now I have had a chance to work more closely with suppliers and staff alike. It’s a question of being realistic and sourcing the suppliers who can best meet your own needs.
What are the benefits of having a restaurant based in Abu Dhabi?
It’s a very fast-growing city with natural beauty and a strong cultural base. It also has a population with good amounts of disposable income.
What is your opinion of the standard of Middle Eastern produce?
The supplies I get are equal to or, in some cases, better than I can find regularly in the UK. A lot of people work very hard to ensure top produce is coming to the Middle East.
What do you think about Marco Pierre-White’s dismissive comments regarding Michelin stars? He said: ‘I’ve dined in Michelin-starred places in New York and I’m confused. There are at least 50 restaurants in England as good as the two-star restaurants over there, rather than the paltry 10 that currently hold that number.’
He’s probably right. The man is a legend and who can disagree?
You’ve worked at some very high-profile restaurants and gained your Michelin stars. Do you think Michelin stars really matter out here?
I have worked and been head chef in Michelin-starred restaurants and maintained the star. Out here I think it’s of little use, people vote with their feet. If you serve good food now, you’ll be busy now. The past is the past.
Who do you see as your main competition? Ramsay, Rhodes and Pierre- White all have restaurants just down the road.
They are chefs that I admire. I don’t think about competition, because it’s not. It’s a business. And we operate in different cities.
What do think about their involvement, as they’re hardly ever here?
I’m sure they have put their trust in very competent people. They are not going to let their standards slip, as it’s their reputation on the line. As Gordon says: ‘If you buy a suit from Armani, did he stitch it himself?’
Your Friday brunch menu is very British. Why have you decided to take that particular direction?
Just to do something a little different. There are a lot of expats here in Abu Dhabi, and if they feel as I feel, they miss a good old Sunday Lunch – only here it’s on Fridays. Time will tell but I’m very confident it will be a success.
Tell us about your signature dish?
What is a signature dish? I try not to get on any theme, just cook what I think people want at the time, according to feedback and available produce.
Who’s the most famous person you’ve cooked for?
David Beckham. This means a lot to me as I am a big football fan. Ryan Giggs had his birthday party where I was chef.
Who’s the most famous person who has cooked for you?
My Mum. She’s great.
Who does the cooking at home?
Me. It’s easier that way as I get frustrated watching other people cook. Although my wife’s Apple Tatin is of restaurant standard.
Apart from cooking, what other passions do you have?
Watching football and fishing.
What’s the cleverest thing you’ve done in a kitchen?
Bought a Paco Jet machine [revolutionary food processor].
And the stupidest?
Tried to serve frogs legs in Portsmouth, UK.
What’s the best thing about being a chef?
People you meet, places you go and kitchen humour – very funny and dark.
