It’s not for nothing that Taiwan was formerly called Ilha Formosa, the Beautiful Island. This tiny landmass – roughly twice the size of Beijing – has its fair share of paradisiacal scenery. But perhaps the most dramatic is Taroko Gorge, with its steep marble cliffs, carved out over four million years by the turquoise waters of the Liwu River.
The gorge gets its name from the indigenous population it once belonged to, the Taroko people. Once known for their facial tattoos and human-headhunting skills, today, like most of Taiwan’s aboriginal tribes, they have mostly lost their birthright. What remains of their cultural heritage can be seen in the Buluowan village, approximately halfway up the gorge. Here, there is an exhibition centre where visitors can learn about the tribe’s history and purchase aboriginal arts and crafts.
Taroko’s main draw, though, is its scenic spots, many of which can be reached by the Central Cross-Island Highway that cuts through the national park. Not to be missed is the Tunnel of Nine Turns, the narrowest point of the gorge and a twisting cave with spectacular views over the canyon. Here, the cliffs are so big, they mask the sky. Swallow Grotto, with its strange rock formations, offers equally stunning vistas. But be prepared for crowds at these easy-to-access parts of the canyon – especially during weekends or holiday periods.
If you want the sights to yourself, you’re going to have to work for them. Next to the traffic-heavy Swallow Grotto is the access point for the Old Jhuilu Trail – a long suspension footbridge, which was only reopened to hikers this summer. There are dozens of excellent hiking trails throughout the gorge, but none compare to this 10.3km route. Hikers roam through lush vegetation, along a tunnel and over old settlements to reach the famed stretch of path that is squeezed between the cliff face and a sheer, 500m vertical drop.
The path is less than one metre wide and those who dare to tread it find themselves clutching on to the safety rope as they peer down into the gaping chasm. Visitor numbers are limited to 48 people a day, and 72 at the weekend, but the mesmerising bird’s-eye view of the gorge makes the application process worthwhile. Those who suffer from vertigo would be best to stick to the relatively tame Shakadang and Lyushui Trails.
Beyond the gorge’s main section are many more jaw-dropping views, from the precipitous Chingshui Cliff on the Pacific coast to the Golden Canyon section of Sanjhan River, where local aboriginal guides can lead you to beautiful waterfalls and pools that are deep enough to swim in.
A two-hour drive further inland along the winding Central Cross-Island Highway takes you to Hehuanshan, a high-altitude paradise for hikers on the western edge of Taroko National Park. This area is characterised by rolling green hills disappearing into the clouds. With an average height above sea level of 3,000m, it’s not unlike the landscape of the Alps, except that spring sees the hills come alive with rhododendrons instead of snowdrops. There are hikes to suit all levels, though most do require permits.
If you can’t be bothered with the hassle of obtaining a permit but still want to head high up into the hills, then try the Mount Shihmen Trail. This is an accessible and easy high mountain trail with stunning views of Mount Cilai and Mount Nanhu’s peaks. Don’t be fooled by the warm temperatures lower down in Taroko Gorge. Make sure you come prepared with appropriate clothing. At this height don’t expect the mercury to rise much above 10°C, whatever time of year you visit. Despite the chilly temperatures, here, like the rest of Taroko Gorge, you’ll find it difficult to tear yourself away from the breathtaking views. This is the Ilha Formosa indeed.
Need to know
Getting there
Cathay Pacific flies from Abu Dhabi to Taipei for around Dhs7,871, stopping at Mumbai, Bangkok and Hong Kong.
Where to stay
Budget
Formosa Backpackers: A 45-minute drive from the gorge, accommodation here is basic, but the staff are friendly and helpful. 206 Jian Guo Road, Hualien. Dorm rooms from Dhs55 a night; private rooms from Dhs70 a night (when booked via www.hostelworld.com).
Luxury
Silks Place Taroko: This hotel offers mountain and river views and is the only five-star hotel in the gorge. 18 Tian Hsyang Road, Shiou Lin Village (+886 3869 1155; www.silksplace-taroko.com.tw). From Dhs770
a night.
What to see
Entry to Taroko National Park is free but some sections require permits. Application forms can be found at www.taroko.gov.tw. Pick up a map at the airport or the Taroko tourist centre (+886 3862 1100 ext 6). River tracing in season with local guides can be booked in Sanjhan Village (www.sanjhan.com).
When to visit
While June to October see typhoons in eastern Taiwan, November to February are the driest months. This is the best period to try outdoor activities, with daytime temperatures hovering around 20-25°C in November and dropping into the high teens in the following winter months. Higher up in the mountains, it’s considerably colder – pack a windproof jacket.
