Estonia has had a turbulent past, its prime location on the Baltic making it an attractive target for invaders. It has been under Danish, Swedish, German and most recently Soviet rule, and all these overlords have left their mark – from German houses and Scandinavian food to a Russian Orthodox cathedral.
Since independence was declared in 1991, Tallinn has gained a reputation as one of the most optimistic cities in Europe, as the sundial on the usually sunless St Mary’s Cathedral indicates. Independence gave Estonians back their national identity and liberated their expressive arts scene. Previously a mass of grey, Tallinn has been transformed into a pastel-painted Unesco World Heritage city ready-made for a clichéd fairytale. Courtyards are hidden off cobbled alleyways that wind past turret-topped battlements, all tidied away inside medieval city walls. ‘Every building has a story to tell,’ our guide says. ‘And if we do not know it, we will make one up.’
Around town
Many people will be happy enough strolling around the beautiful old town taking in the pastel-painted merchant’s houses and churches with the aroma of hot spiced almonds in the frosty air. However, it’s silly to go to a city with such a tempestuous past and not find out about it.
Some of the most fascinating sights lie underground. You can wander through eerie so-called bastion tunnels, which date from the late seventeenth century. Originally built as cannon transport routes, later used as bomb shelters and most recently as a haven for the homeless. Above them sits Kiek in de Kök (Komandandi 2, +372 6446686), a medieval defensive tower now housing war memorabilia; the cosy café on the top floor provides a panoramic lookout over the city.
Carry on up Toompea Hill for an unrivalled view of the lower old town right across to the Baltic Sea, and on the way back down stop off for coffee at Bogapott (Pikk jalg 9, +372 6313181). This quaint family-run establishment is in a small courtyard and is home to a pottery workshop, a café and a shop selling beautiful handmade crockery.
Art
Art is visible across the city but until five years ago Tallinn had no main, permanent gallery in which to display the country’s collection. Then came Kumu (Weizenbergi 34, +372 6026000), a striking space worth a visit for its building alone. The product of an international architectural competition, it’s built into a limestone hill a short tram ride away from the old town. As well as regular exhibitions of work from the country’s finest twentieth century artists, the gallery also houses a number of permanent collections covering Estonian art through the ages, plus a great little café where you can get a hot lunch for under Dhs30.
If formal galleries are not your thing, head to the recently completed Rotermanni Quarter (Loovala, Rotermanni 5). As well as the aforementioned markets, this area of restored warehouses is home to Loovala, an open studio where you can watch artists at work, buy their creations or even make your own in one of the workshops.
Eating out
During the Soviet era, many restaurants were shut down and few imported ingredients made it through the Iron Curtain. With independence came spices, fancier produce and a surge of international restaurants.
To experience authentic Estonian hospitality with a modern twist, head to nAnO (Sulevimagi 5, +372 55522522) restaurant, which is located in the bohemian home of Estonian fashion icon Beatrice Mass and her DJ husband Priit. It serves home cooking in a relaxed setting that mixes up the many cuisines the couple have enjoyed on their travels. The house is a splash of colour, with hand-painted, mismatched chairs, graffiti-emblazoned tables and hundreds of framed paintings and modelling photos hanging on beautiful mural-covered walls.
For a more old-fashioned dining experience, check out the upmarket Stenhus (Stenhus, Puhavaimu 13/15, +372 6997700), which – like many of Tallinn’s best eateries – can be found under a cobbled street. An ominous-looking, dimly lit staircase descending underground often paves the way to great food in this city. It’s located in the Schlössle Hotel’s vaulted cellar, and its rich red velvet drapes, candlelit medieval walls and roaring log fire set the scene for a romantic wintry dinner.
Tallinn also has a kitsch café culture. The city’s oldest courtyard houses Chocolats de Pierre (Vene 6, +372 6418061), a perfect shelter from the snow. This enchanting café specialises in handmade chocolates. Stacked to the rafters with antiques and full of secret snugs, it’s the cosiest hot chocolate spot in town.
Music
Estonians have always had an intimate relationship with music; it is a country where song brings change. In the summer of 1988 the Singing Revolution took place, with thousands of Estonians coming together to sing forbidden national songs and waving flags in a peaceful protest against the Soviet occupation. To this day folk music has remained at the heart of Estonian culture and festivals attract enormous crowds year after year – the big one is the Viljandi Folk Festival, which usually happens in late July.
Opera is also popular and Tallinn’s national opera house (Estonia Avenue 4, +372 6831201) – damaged in a 1944 Soviet aerial bombardment – has now been fully restored. There’s an active programme of operas, operettas and ballets and, if you’re lucky, you can bag the best seat in the house for somewhere in the region of Dhs148.
Shopping
Forget the high street – it’s not quite Soviet, but there’s not much going on. Shopping in Tallinn is all about handicrafts and markets, and this year the ‘home of the Christmas tree’ (an Estonian claim disputed by Latvians and some Germans) shifted its spectacular and delightful Christmas market to a new home in the Rotermanni quarter. If you go during the festive period expect to find a range of beautiful gifts such as handmade soaps, decorations, knitted clothes and artworks. If you wish you can also try some of the infamous local beverages, bottles of which worryingly list none of the ingredients; rumour has it though that the secret recipes include orange rind and spices.
Beyond the market, ignore the tourist trap souvenir shops and head for the artist’s workshops, where you’ll find unique, individual gifts. The Katariina Guild is a collection of workshops lining a beautiful alleyway, and Katariina Käik (ie street), is where you can watch artists at work blowing colourful glass vases and creating statement jewellery. Local antiques shops – which are dotted around the city – make interesting rummaging, and you may stumble on some Soviet retro artefacts buried among the Estonian treasures.
Stay
Blow out
Schlössle Hotel (Puhavaimu 13/15, +372 6997700) is the oldest five-star hotel in Tallinn. This boutique residence is a converted medieval merchant’s house and a member of the Leading Hotels of the World group. With a bounty of original features, a sauna and the award-winning French-Estonian fusion restaurant Stenhus, it’s the poshest pad in town. Doubles from approx Dhs885 per night B&B.
Mid-range
The four-star St Petersbourg Hotel (Rataskaevu 7, +372 6286500) has Russian-style interiors and offers high-end service at an affordable price. Its restaurant Nevskij serves Russian delicacies such as lamb pelmeni and even has its very own resident parrot, which performs a daily lap of honour. Doubles from approx Dhs470 per night B&B.
Budget
nAnO House (Sulevimagi 5, +372 55522522) is the hippy home to the warm and welcoming Beatrice and Priit. This trendy but homely flat sleeps up to three people (one double, one single) and is just a
few minutes’ walk from the main square. They are also happy to arrange breakfast and dinner in their home restaurant. From Dhs148 per person per night with family discounts available.
Top tip
Are you planning on doing a lot of sightseeing? If so, it’s worthinvesting in a Tallinn Card. They come in six-, 12-, 24- or 48-hour options, cost from Dhs57 and provide you with free entry or discounts at nearly 100 attractions as well as free public transport. But beware: in the winter (particularly around December time) the sun sets at about 3.30pm, so be sure to plan your day’s sightseeing with military precision.
Need to know
Getting there
There are numerous airlines operating flights out of Abu Dhabi International Airport. However, all journeys will involve stopovers of varying lengths depending on when you wish to fly and with which carrier. KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines www.klm.com) offer a host of options starting from around the Dhs3,330 mark.
Abu Dhabi to tallinn
Flight time: From 13-17 hours, depending on stopover time.
Time difference: Two hours behind the UAE.
Dhs1 = 0.21 Euros.
