Becky Lucas flees the urban madness for two nights at the very relaxing Al Maha Desert Resort and Spa.
Now this is embarrassing. Following a hectic week, we are raring to go on our road trip: we’ve whipped our weekend bags from under our desks, jumped in the Toyota Yaris, whacked up the music, and bought enough snacks to survive at least a month in isolation. And then, an hour and a half later… we’re here. Already.
The Al Maha Desert Retreat and Spa really is just on the outskirts of Dubai: considering how peaceful it’s supposed to be, we hadn’t imagined it would really be so close to the roar of the metropolitan sprawl. The second lesson quickly learned is that we ought to have called ahead. Most guests park their cars at the gate to be picked up in a hotel 4×4 for the remaining 10km journey to reception, via a looping desert track. Waiting for our chauffeur, the silence is already eerie as we look up and spot stars. Just passing through the gates is like a massage for a stressed-out soul.
Our South African female guide pulls up and proceeds to run through the activities available to us. Two per day are included in the suite rate, running from falconry, a Ghaf-tree or nature walk, horse riding (though the fiery Arabian horses mean you need to be an experienced rider), archery, a desert or wildlife drive, drinks or a sunset camel ride, as well as the spa treatments, at extra cost. We immediately agree on the humped option – despite our driver telling us the animals are not indigenous to the UAE, instead having been brought over from North Africa by Bedouins and have since seriously damaged the environment, mainly by eating most of it.
Indeed, the greenness of this desert landscape is unexpected and our guide explains that all flora and fauna – as part of the 225sqkm Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve – is natural to the UAE, with the camels kept in a separate enclosure.
On arrival we head straight to dinner to catch the end of service and are treated to international organic fare at flagship restaurant, Al Diwaan. The staff proudly tell us they can whip up anything we ask for, as long as we place our order in the morning (we naughtily consider asking for fish caught in the Tasman Sea).
Following a fun (rather fast!) buggy ride to the suite, we understand why we were encouraged to grab dinner before being shown around. The resort is vast, with many Emirati touches – think faux-tent ceilings and framed hunting guns – blended with modern extras: beds are vast and sleep-inducingly comfortable and every suite has its own pool, the temperature of which can be altered to your preference.
Settled in to our suite, there is nothing left to do but enjoy a poolside nightcap – only to be swiftly startled by a visiting oryx, the very same horned beast that our buggy driver informed us would ‘run aggressively, horns down,’ should it feel challenged.
Fortunately for us, the many we soon see seem less than bothered about our presence.
The next day, we head off on our camel sunset trek, along with, it seems, half of the resort. It’s clear why it’s so popular, the experience is unforgettable – romantic, scenic and hilarious, the ride is far bumpier than expected.
Thankfully, the same cannot be said for the utterly calming experience of Al Maha itself, which ought to be prescribed to anyone feeling love-struck, over-exposed or stressed-out in the city.
Suites start from Dhs2,900, or day passes start from Dhs500 per person for pool and spa access with lunch. www.al-maha.com (04 832 9900).
Other desert retreats
Bab Al Shams
Tastefully designed, also very good for afternoon tea.
Superior Twin room from approx. Dhs723*. www.meydanhotels.com (04 381 3231).
Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara, Sir Bani Yas Island
See cheetahs on this less indigenous safari getaway.
Double room from approx. Dhs975*. www.desertislands.anantara.com (02 801 5400).
Tilal Liwa-Hotel
See the endless orange dunes from this four-star hotel.
Double room from Dhs440*. www.danathotels.com (02 894 6111). *All checked Fri July 5-Sat July 6.
Need to know
Getting there
Take the exit for Dubai/Sweihan off the Airport Road. Follow signs to Dubai onto the E11. Take exit 39 onto Umm Suqeim road and follow it until it meets up with the Emirates Road (E311) at the Dubai Land roundabout. Take the Emirates Road and follow it to exit 44. Follow the signs to Al Ain (E66).
