Get on your bikes and ride!
Kerala
The south Indian state of Kerala is draped in a dense canopy of palm trees. From above, it appears a rolling stretch of green-topped trees which extends to immaculate seas, with only the occasional lighthouse, church spire and radio mast poking through. Even the streets of Trivandrum, Kerala’s capital, feel as if they have carved and creeped their way through the jungle. This lushness, combined with a local penchant for tongue-numbingly hot fish stews and the ubiquitous hammer and sickles (this being India’s relaxed stronghold of communism), often makes Kerala seem like Cuba, with curry.
The humidity hits like a warm, damp rag to the face. The profusion of trees and the living, breathing network of lagoons that cut through the country, known as the back-waters, give Kerala its own calming, tropical exhale. With one main highway forming a spine through the country, the area is navigable through tiny, shaded lanes perfect for exploring by bicycle. There are plenty of easily accessible routes through dense thickets that lead to coastal paths, deserted beaches and, of course, the peaceful backwater canals.
Start from Poovar Island Resort (www.poovarislandresort.com), an eco-oriented collection of wooden cottages that float serenely on a pristine stretch of backwater near Trivandrum. From here, jump in a canoe with local fisherman and head off down the river (around Dhs12). Net shrimps the size of steaks before drifting lazily down the green-hued waters. The resort can also set you up on one of Kerala’s signature thatched roof kettuvallams (houseboats). While a touch on the touristy side, an overnight cruise with on-board cook is perfect for delving into the village-life that flourishes alongside the backwaters. Drop into toddy shacks selling coconut drinks and unbelievably hot fish molly curry, spot locals fishing with catapult-like Chinese fishing nets and take in the languid pace of life on these waters. Get the attention of a passing fisherman and you can pick your dinner from their freshly stocked hampers.
But enough lazing. Rent a bicycle from Poovar and take to the coastal roads running south. You’re likely to share these narrow roads with only a few other local cyclists and one or two slow-moving carts, so it’s an easy and safe ride. Sweep beneath palms, across mossy bridges perched over backwaters, and hunt out the pristine beaches that dot this route. Stick to the coast and you can cross the border into neighbouring state Tamil Nadu, heading towards Nagercoil. If you’re adventurous and prepared to stick with your bike, there’s a 75km journey down to Kanniyakumari which lies at the very tip of the country. The route oscillates between dense forest thickets and pockets of urban living, and there are plenty of points en-route to get any puncture repairs done.
Alternatively, ditch the bike back at Poovar and jump on a train heading for the cape at Kanniyakumari. At this most southerly point in India, three seas meet in a confluence of the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea. The tumult is watched over by a huge statue of Indian saintly poet Thiruvalluvar, who extends a peaceful raised palm to the horizon. With the statue perched on a rocky outcrop some distance from the coast, its position makes it ideal for watching both sunrise and sunset. Grab a seaview guesthouse (there are plenty along the strip, but Hotel Sea View, if not the most attractive building, offers a sea facing room for as little as Dhs274 a night – www.hotelseaview.in), and hit the nearby beach with the unobscured immensity of the sea as your final vision of south India.
Don’t leave without…
Catching Kathakali
Kerala’s endemic dance-form, with its elaborate make-up, music and ritualistic atmosphere, may have been given the package holiday once-over in many of the seaside towns, but Fort Cochin still offers something almost authentic.
Setting your tongue alight with fish molly
It’ll shock you, it might make your eyes water, but it is darn tasty. You can’t leave Kerala without the sting of its signature dish burned into your tongue.
Spotting tigers in Silent Valley
This huge national park in the Pallakad district is home to a thriving ecosystem of elephants, lion-tailed macaques and, incredibly, a significant tiger population.
Flights between Abu Dhabi and Thiruvananthapuram (TRIVANDRUM) take around four-and-a-half hours with Jet airways. fares vary, subject to online campaigns. visas are required before travel and can be obtained from the indian embassy, off the airport road (02 449 2700).
