Ancient wonders
Jordan
Think Jordan, and you automatically think of Petra, the ancient city carved into a cavern of red rock. While it’s true that the country has more to offer, a visit to this destination – about three hours from the capital of Amman – remains a must-see.
The Treasury, famously re-discovered by American Dr Indiana Jones in 1989, is the most recognisable of Petra’s buildings, reached via the Siq, a narrow corridor of rock that serves as the entrance to the city. On arrival, you’ll be told at the gate by the various guides that the actual city is too far and you need a donkey or cart to get you there – not true; you’ll be inside in 20 minutes. Walk around the red rocks and you’ll also discover an ampitheatre and a museum located in one of the tombs. It’s a walk up 800 or so steps to the top of a mountain to reach the Monastry, Petra’s second attraction.
Most hotels from Amman or nearby Madaba can arrange a bus to take its guests to Petra, and the trip is about Dhs70, or you can take a taxi for around Dhs200. Getting the return journey from neighbouring Wadi Musa is cheaper; head back to the capital in a packed bus from the town station for around Dhs30.
Heading in the opposite direction is the stunning Wadi Rum, and Aqaba, with excellent diving opportunities. But it’s the Dead Sea, just outside Amman, that pulls the crowds. Located at the Earth’s lowest point, 1,371 metres below sea level, you’re welcome to lie on the water (as opposed to in) and bob around. Just don’t get any in your eyes. The mud drenched from the bottom of the Dead Sea also attracts visitors – locals will happily cover you in the black stuff, scooped from a bucket, for a small fee. Allow it to cake in the sun and mull on its skin preserving qualities.
Getting around Jordan is key, and while most hotels can provide transport to help you bridge the barren, featureless gap between Amman and Petra, don’t feel you have to stay in Amman just because you landed there. It’s only about 20 minutes from the airport by taxi to the much quieter Madaba. The town is famous for its mosaics, and provides easier access to the Dead Sea, the Jordan River and Mount Nebo, with hotels still providing that all important trek to Petra.
That’s not to say Amman should be glossed over. The main attractions are located in the downtown area of Balak – away from the newer malls and hotels. Here you will find the largest amphitheatre in the country – another souvenir of Roman rule – which also features a small museum. Walk from there up the nearby Citadel Hill and you’ll come to the remains of the Temple of Hercules, with views over the rest of the city. The Archaeological Museum is located here, where you can peruse the famous Dead Sea Scrolls.
But the liveliest experience we found in Jordan came in Jerash, a city just north of Amman. Steeped in Roman history, the city’s hippodrome offers visitors re-enactments of chariot races and gladiator fights. Who needs Indiana Jones when Ben Hur is in town?
Don’t leave without…
Flying over Wadi Rum in a microlight
The Royal Aero Sports Club of Jordan (www.royalaeroclub.com), based in Aqaba, offer one- hour flights over Lawrence of Arabia’s old stomping ground for as little as Dhs620.
Cooking up a feast at the Petra Kitchen
Possibly the only restaurant that teaches you how to cook your order, then sits back while you take over the kitchen. Dhs155 for the keys to the secrets of the Levant (+962 3 215 5900).
Time traveling at Kerak Castle
Petra may get all the press, but Kerak does pretty well considering it is 867 years old. There aren’t many places that survived the crusades and are still around to tell the tale. Follow the old King’s Highway south of Madaba.
Flights between Abu Dhabi and AmMAN take around three hours, 10 minutes with royal Jordanian airlines, from Dhs1,375 (ECCONOMY) AND DHS3,415 (Business class), all taxes and surcharges included. visas can generally be purchased at the airport on arrival.
