Everything’s better when there’s moonlight involved – swimming, romantic trysts, sonatas – and the same goes for kayaking. Go during the day and it’s just a fun, splashy workout. Go after dark, however, and suddenly a paddle around the mangroves becomes daring, adventurous and fraught with (utterly imaginary) danger.
Rowing away from the riverbank, our full moon mangrove tour group slowly left behind the street light and the sound of traffic. Each of us had our own individual kayak complete with flashing light so we could be rescued easily if a mangrove monster tried to pull us under the dark waters. Also, so we could keep an eye on where the rest of the group was.
The light of the full moon, torches and the distant lights of Abu Dhabi kept the waves bright enough for us to see where we were going, so, after a few false starts and bumper car style collisions, even first-time kayakers got the hang of the rowing. We moved at quite a pace, despite the gentle tide flowing the other way.
Things got exciting (and more than a little spooky – anyone seen the movie Black Water?) when we moved down into the mangrove valley, where the tree branches hung low and eerily still. The water was shallow, and the smell of vegetation and warm salty water was almost overpowering. We steered our kayaks as close to the sandbanks as possible, and suddenly, under the torchlight, hundreds of small sesarmine crabs (pictured) became visible, scuttling crazily about as we disturbed them. One of our intrepid guides managed to grab one, and up close we were able to examine its amazing electric purple shell. We also listened to a mini biology lesson about the little critters, who manage to ‘breathe’ the salt water by pumping it out of their gills and trickling it over their bodies, a technique that allows them to take in oxygen and keep them cool at the same time. Although these crabs are tiny, Bedouin used to gather them on arduous journeys across the desert, and use them to flavour soup when other sources of protein were scarce. Delicious as he looked, though, we let the little fella we’d been inspecting run back to his pals.
After paddling back out of the mangrove valley, we less-experienced kayakers found our arms and shoulders growing weary, so our guides suggested we stop for a quick break. Some of the party found the urge to dive into the waves irresistible. Everyone else lay back in their kayaks, gazed at the full moon and listened to the cicadas chirping. It was idyllic – a middle of the city moment that felt like the middle of nowhere.
Next stop was a mini sand island where a small family of Arabian foxes had made their home. They didn’t venture out for us to see them that evening (although we heard on good authority they resemble little Chihuahuas). But they have limited time before their home is destroyed, as the sandbank is getting slowly eroded away by powerboat wash and the recent dredging in the area. Adventure company Noukhada has a scheme in place where companies keen to engage in CSR team-building exercises can spend an afternoon carrying sandbags out to help slow the erosion. Heading back to the real world, we began the long row back to our cars, exhausted, wet and smelling of salt water, but feeling lucky to have seen the natural opposite to Abu Dhabi’s concrete jungle.
The full moon mangrove tour costs Dhs200 per person. Call 050 721 8928 to book. Visit noukhada.ae for further information.
Got the taste for adventure?
Try these fun trips:
• Helicopter Tour – Get a bird’s eye view of the capital’s landmarks. Dhs1,250 per person for a 30-minute flight. Falcon Aviation (02 444 0007).
• Ultimate Thrill Ride – An adrenaline-pumping ride across Abu Dhabi’s waters in a high-speed boat. Dhs100 per adult, Dhs75 per child for a 30-minute ride. The Yellow Boats (02 800 0044).
• Fishing Trip – Try your hand at a spot of fishing at a variety of locations. Call for quotes for a three-hour fishing trip. Sea Tourism (02 681 3064).
