Posted inThe Knowledge

International Jewellery and Watch Show

In preparation for this month’s International Jewellery and Watch Show, we speak to gemologist Pritam Mukhi

What makes a diamond?
A diamond is a mineral composed of a single element: carbon. Diamonds are usually about 99.95 per cent carbon and 0.05 per cent other elements, which are not part of a diamond’s essential chemistry, but these can effect its colour and shape.

What’s the most expensive gem you’ve come across?
The largest diamond I’ve ever seen was a 215 carat stone and, to be honest, it didn’t have a price attached – it wasn’t for sale. Truly priceless.

What determines the price of a real diamond?

The four ‘C’s are a set of value factors with which the final value of a particular gemstone is determined. The first is internal and external clarity. Look for inclusions, such as crystals or other minerals totally enclosed within the stone, and blemishes, which are confined to the surface of a finished gemstone. The second ‘C’ is the carat. This refers to the weight of a gemstone, with one carat equalling 100 points. Remember, this is a measurement of weight rather than the actual points on the diamond. Then there is the cut of the diamond. This refers to its shape. Although, when buying a stone, it is imperative that one buys a stone that is cut to the correct proportions in order that you get the desired light response from a stone.

And the fourth ‘C’?
Diamonds are commonly thought of as a completely colourless gem, although a truly colourless diamond is very rare indeed, so colour plays an important role. Most stones used in jewellery fall within a colour scale that runs from D to Z, with D being completely colourless. Most diamonds used in jewellery are almost colourless (or would appear colourless to most) but contain slight tints from yellow to brown. The clearer the jewel, the more expensive. Diamonds are available in a wide spectrum of colours. There are even chameleon diamonds that can change colour considerably.

How does this all affect the price?
By considering the four ‘C’s above, diamond prices change accordingly. A colourless diamond, with no clarity characteristics [flawless], perfectly cut, weighing one carat would cost more than a diamond of the same weight with a lower colour and clarity grade. Colourless stones are rarer than tinted stones, bigger stones rarer than smaller, cleaner stones rarer than those with inclusions and blemishes, and a perfectly cut stone rarer than a badly proportioned or polished stone. Therefore, the rarer the stone, the dearer the price tag. And remember: no two stones in the world are exactly alike.

Given the amount of information there is to consider, is there a way to be safe in the knowledge that you get what you think you are getting?
When buying a stone that weighs one carat or more, I would insist that you ask for a certificate. Make sure that the stone is certified by a professional laboratory, not a simple store certificate. This ensures that you are getting what you paid for.

Given that, in the UAE, everything can be personalised. Can you get a diamond cut to your own custom design?
Some companies have patented diamond cuts and they usually offer them in a whole host of sizes. Although, I haven’t heard of an end user designing their own cut in order to have a unique stone for themselves. I don’t advise it. The optical properties of a diamond are extremely complicated and require much research and large budgets in order to design a stone that would give the buyer the correct light response.


Gem of knowledge

In between browsing the latest jewels, jewellery and spangly things from all over the world on display at Adnec this month, check out the International Gemological Institute. They will be operating a fully equipped working laboratory at the show from October 14-18 for anyone interested in learning about gemstones. Daily sessions teaching visitors the basics of how to grade your diamonds will be open to all, so get on down and learn your carats from your cubic zirconias. Diamonds are the world’s best friend, after all.

The International Jewellery and Watch show takes place at Adnec from October 14-18, 4pm-10pm daily. Tickets are available from the venue and cost Dhs20 per person for the day, children below 12 enter for free.