‘If your CV includes the line “I have a passion for fashion”, get rid of it now!’ Toby Meadows is the London College of Fashion (LCF) lecturer whose task it is to divulge as much industry insider info as possible during a swift one-day course at the Kempinski Hotel, Dubai. And it’s obvious from the blushing faces and slightly nervous chuckles of students taking part in this, one of seven shorts courses being offered for the first time in the UAE by LCF, that his plea has struck a chord with more than a few fashion-obsessed participants.
As one of the most fiercely competitive, creatively exciting and expressive industries around, the fashion world remains an exclusive club, one which ruthlessly rejects thousands upon thousands of devoted followers dreaming of making it big, whether in design, the media or retail. It’s a world where innovative vision and imagination are revered; a forum for popular culture and a battleground where big budgets and even bigger personalities collide. So why do so many of us want to be part of it? Easy – because, in the words of TV’s Edina Monsoon, ‘it’s absolutely fabulous, darling!’
‘Now is one of the most exciting times in fashion because no-one knows what is going to happen,’ reveals Toby. He begins by explaining that the only brands to suffer at the hands of the recession are those that have stopped being relevant to the consumer. We’re all here to learn ‘The Essentials of the Fashion Industry’, a one day course being offered by LCF (along with others including ‘Starting Your Own Fashion Label’, ‘Fashion Journalism’ and ‘The Power of Visual Merchandising’), as a ‘pilot’ to determine if there will be a demand for a re-run of the programme this coming October, and if there is potential clientele for a permanent LCF campus here in Dubai.
Following brief introductions to reveal a mixed class of aspiring designers, store owners, PR professionals and those who simply share a love of fashion, Toby initiates a quick brainstorming session by asking: ‘What is fashion?’
Next up, a historical overview as we ponder the role of Rose Bertin (fashion’s first influential designer and confidante to Queen Marie Antoinette) and Charles Frederick Worth (the ‘Father of Haute Couture’) and the impact that the Industrial Revolution had on production processes. It’s all insightful stuff and a far cry from those drab timeline-heavy history classes we all had to endure at high school. And there’s no sign of semolina either – instead, we tuck into sweet pastries, cookies and cappuccinos during frequent breaks throughout the day.
Industry sectors, the role of manufacturers and retailers and the recent collaboration between online retailing and print publications which Toby calls ‘the future’ of fashion (referring to the colossal impact ASOS.com has had with the release of its magazine), are all discussed. Contemplating our shopping habits, it seems men are as loyal as a trusty collie, while women are far more fickle. ‘Once you have men hooked, that’s it, they’ll stick to the same brand for years,’ says Toby. ‘Women are more susceptible to advertising and will succumb to the lure of the “must-have”.’ It makes sense – while most adolescent blokes relied on their mothers to buy their boxer shorts and C&A shirts, teenage girls were playing dress-up, reinventing their look to coincide with Madonna’s latest fashion foray, from leg warmers and leather jackets in the ’80s to cone bras and corsets in the heady ’90s.
The supply chain, seasons, trends and the impact of street culture (Tokyo residents in particular are credited with being risk-takers by way of their experimental style), are all tackled. Ever wondered why designers tend to channel the same trend at the same time, such as spring/summer’s focus on underwear as outerwear, or next season’s obsession with the camel coat? Well, there’s a whole business devoted to the prediction of trends, and, as it turns out, it ain’t rocket science. ‘If clean lines and masculine tailoring dominate for a couple of seasons, it’s a safe bet designers will be working on the return of ladylike chic with feminine eveningwear and high glamour accessories,’ says Toby. ‘Most trends follow a ten to 20-year cycle – the real mission for designers now is to come up with something new entirely.’
As the day draws to a close and we’re treated to images of John Galliano, Anna Wintour, Mario Testino and other influential icons of fashion, it’s hard not to feel inspired – there’s a definite buzz in class, cemented by collective applause and a quick-fire succession of questions for the lecturer whose vast knowledge of fashion as a ‘business’, an intricate industry and well-oiled selling machine, is so profound. For those who believe fashion to be little more than an outlet for the vain imaginings of wacky art school-types, think on. As Sarah Mower, the British Fashion Council’s ambassador for emerging talent, said recently: ‘Fashion is not like any other industry…it’s a calling. It’s an entire way of life.’
For more details about the LCF courses coming to the UAE, visit www.fashion.arts.ac.uk/dubai
