If there’s one thing Abu Dhabi and I have in common, it’s an appreciation of exotic cuisine. Looking for Yemeni fare? How about Nepalese momos, cheap and cheerful Vietnamese dishes or some of the best backstreet curries this side of India? You’ll find it all and more right here – and one of the most popular? Sushi. Growing up in a small village in Wales, for me access to any exciting cuisine was limited at best. A childhood spent in 1980s Llangwyryfon – a tiny village in a country where the national dish is basically cheese on toast – was no way to satisfy adventurous taste buds.
As I got old enough to travel, I sampled everything from Hungarian goulash in Budapest to spicy grilled fish on the beaches of the Caribbean. But it wasn’t until a trip to Japan a few years ago that I found my favourite of them all – sushi. Whether it’s sweet, soft unagi or rich slices of tuna, I can’t get enough of the stuff. And neither, it seems, can Abu Dhabi – with another new restaurant (Yotto) opening in the past year, as well as a brand new all-Japanese menu at InterContinental’s Yacht Club – on the surface, Abu Dhabi looks like a haven for fish fans.
Why is it, then, in a city where gold is liberally grated on to your cake and coffee, or where huge slabs of foie gras are smeared on to chunky cuts of waguy steak, the restaurants are so stingy with the fish? Now I know Japan is all about minimalism – but they also coined the phrase hara hachi bu – loosely translated, it lauds eating until you’re 80 per cent full as the best way to good health. At the last sushi dinner I had, any attempt to eat until I was 80 per cent full would have resulted in a bank account that was 80 per cent emptier – such were the prices and portion sizes. I’m beginning to think it’s a case of just not enough fish and rice to go around, so as another sushi joint opens, everyone else gets a smaller ration to work with.
Of course, that’s pretty hard to believe when I can see the fish-filled Gulf waters from my window. So, Abu Dhabi chefs, I’m afraid there’s no excuse – let us have a proper taste of what you’re offering. Not sure how much to feed us? Here’s a tip: when the lump of wasabi on the plate is bigger than the nigiri, it’s time for a rethink.
