Abu Dhabi has a lot going for it, but sometimes the grind of construction noise, the fog of pollution and the race of traffic can get to even the most stoical individual. It’s no wonder many residents leave solid ground as soon as the weekend arrives, jump on a boat or Jet Ski and head out into the deep blue to explore some of the 200-plus islands that surround the city. Over the next few pages, you’ll find our complete guide to some of these sea-surrounded havens and what each of them has to offer.
The main isles
As well as scores of smaller islands, there are some major ones you need to check out. Here are some that you really need to see…
Bahraini Island
What to do: Also known as Maya Island, this sandy mass is home to some of the best beaches in the Emirate. Aside from a resort in the north and some industrial facilities in the north west, the coastline is largely undeveloped, meaning weekends often see hordes of seafaring folk pitching up for a cosy beach barbecue and a splash in the shallow surrounding waters. Those with less serene pursuits in mind should check out BPM – a weekly beach party where house music, grilled meat and mixed beverages draw a crowd every Friday. It’s not just a case of being let loose on the sand, though – there’s also a pool with a swim-up bar, and, for the hotter months, a thatched roof bar serving up chilled drinks, as well as all the standard bar food.
Where to stay: Maya Island Resort (02 667 7777) – a complex of luxury villas next to the aforementioned party zone – is pretty much your only option for a stay over that doesn’t involve grappling with tent poles and tarpaulin. Prices aren’t cheap either – a one-bed villa will set you back Dhs2,900 a night, while two and three-bed properties clock in at Dhs5,220 and Dhs7,540 respectively.
How to get there: The BPM parties are run by Abu Dhabi Health and Fitness Club (ironically enough), which also organises boat transport from Khalidiyah beach. Contact ADHFC on 02 657 7612 for details on weekend packages and prices.
Delma Island
What to do: Delma, which lies off the coast of the Western Region of Abu Dhabi, is one of the oldest inhabited islands in the area, with archaeologists finding evidence of human existence dating back 10,000 years. The island’s plentiful supplies of fresh water, as well as the numerous date plantations, supported the local population throughout history, but nowadays there’s a small town, with shops and even its own mall. If you visit, the Delma Museum is worth a look, playing host to numerous fascinating artefacts found on the isle, as well as a hand-written letter by the late, great Sheikh Zayed proclaiming Delma a ‘national treasure’ – the island’s raw unspoiled beauty makes it clear what the father of the nation meant. Recently, Delma has been designated by the government as a potential tourist destination, with hotels and other facilities proposed to be constructed there in the near future.
Where to stay: At the moment, there’s only a small motel (02 878 1222) which isn’t the most luxurious stopover in the world, but is a decent enough place to get your head down overnight, with prices at just under Dhs700 for a double. You can also rent chalets on the beach at reasonable prices.
How to get there: Last year, a six-times-a-day ferry service to the island was launched. It leaves from Jebel Dhanna ferry port and takes 90 minutes to reach Delma, costing Dhs25. It takes almost three hours to drive from Abu Dhabi to the ferry port, so Delma’s not the kind of place you can just sojourn over to in an afternoon – you’re talking a weekend visit at least.
Al Futaisi Island
What to do: Futaisi is owned by rainbow-loving Sheikh Hamad bin Hamdan Al Nahyan, who’s marked his territory by scoring his name into the sand in kilometre-long letters (look it up on Google Earth if you don’t believe us). Surprisingly, though, despite being one of the bigger islands around the capital – at 50sq k, it’s not much smaller than the city itself – Hamad’s patch remains largely undeveloped, and, as such, is known for its various sites of natural beauty. Well worth checking out are a tranquil mangrove lagoon to rival those on the mainland, an Arabian Fort and a miniature zoo, as well as facilities for sports and horse riding. However, most choose to simply lounge on the intimate, sandy beach and gaze back at the city they’ve left behind…
Where to stay: We won’t lie to you – while the natural aspects of Futaisi are well worth braving the high seas for, what little development there is on the island isn’t really up to much. The small cluster of chalets next to the beach is a little reminiscent of an under-loved resort somewhere in the Balearics, but will do the job if you’re not able to squeeze your activities into a single day. Providing you’ve got Dhs1,200 to spare, that is.
How to get there: From the main city, the best way to access the island is from Hamad marina (head for Al Bateen Port and follow the rainbows). Here you can pick up a return ticket on the ferry for Dhs100, which sets sail at 10.30am and returns at 5.30pm.
Saadiyat Island
What to do: Like neighbouring Yas Island, Saadiyat is also being transformed into a sprawling borough. But whereas Yas is focusing on entertainment and sports activities, Saadiyat’s pitching itself as the Middle East’s cultural centre. At the moment, your recreation options are limited. South African golfing great Gary Player’s Saadiyat Beach Golf Club is slowly garnering a reputation as a fine spot to swing your irons, while Manarat Al Saadiyat is an elongated monolithic structure, which, as it proved with the RSTW show, provides ample exhibition space for any illustrious art collection. But until the Louvre and Guggenheim museums start welcoming art patrons circa 2013, you’ll probably only be paying a fleeting visit to Saadiyat.
Where to stay: At the moment, Saadiyat doesn’t have any completed hotels. However, this year we’ve been assured a string of hotels – including the luxurious St Regis resort and Park Hyatt – are due to open around the golf course by the year’s end.
How to get there: No boat required. Saadiyat’s well connected to the mainland via the Sheikh Khalifa Highway.
Al Sammaliah Island
What to do: Just five minutes’ drive from Al Raha Beach Hotel lies this secluded, peaceful island that’s been turned into a nature sanctuary. Among the exotic wildlife that inhabits the island are ostriches, emus, lizards, gazelles and more wildfowl than you could point a camera at.
The island is also used as a resort for young Emiratis to visit to help them reconnect with the past and learn about the flora and fauna of their country. There are even a few old timers living there who used to work in the country’s once prosperous pearl diving industry, and who are on hand to teach the youngsters about the secrets of the sea.
The island is overseen by the Emirates Heritage Club (02 558 4474), and it’s worth checking with them before heading out there, because it is private property. But if you get the all clear, you’ll find one of the most idyllic and culture-filled islands in the vicinity, perfect for wandering around on and gazing at wildlife.
Where to stay: There are no hotels on Sammaliah and camping is illegal, so it’s a day visit only, we’re afraid.
How to get there: Al Sammaliah is five minutes by power boat from Al Raha Beach Hotel, or 30 minutes from the Corniche.
Sir Bani Yas Island
What to do: Sir Bani Yas Island simply has to be seen to be believed. It’s a sprawling, man-made wildlife reserve, founded in the late 1990s by Sheikh Zayed himself. Once just a sparse, dry plain, it now has foliage planted across the island, sustained by endless water piping, and is home to thousands of wild animals. So while you’re there, take a safari tour to check out the cheetahs, llama, giraffes and ostriches roaming free. You can also join in a whole bunch of activities on the island, such as archery, nature walks and mountain biking. And for those of you interested in history, there’s even the chance to examine the fascinating remains of a Christian monastery that dates back to 600 AD.
Where to stay: Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara (02 801 5400) is a five star resort set next to a mangrove lagoon, beach and bay on the northern end of Sir Bani Yas Island. It’s the only on-site accommodation available, with deluxe rooms starting at around Dhs1,250 per night, and is an ideal place to stay if you want to really immerse yourself in the island’s culture and wildlife. You can arrange all your activities through the hotel’s adventure centre, and the rooms, which are all decorated with local fabrics and Middle Eastern art, make a really cosy place to retreat to once you’ve finished exploring. The facilities include a pool, tennis courts, a spa, a restaurant and a bar, so once you’ve settled into desert island life here, even if it’s just for a weekend, you’ll find it hard to drag yourself back to Abu Dhabi’s typical urban lifestyle.
How to get there: The most direct route is to take a plane from Abu Dhabi Airport, which you can book through www.desertislands.com, costs Dhs380 each way and takes just 25 minutes. There’s also a ferry from Jebel Dhanna Port, but it’s around a three-hour drive from Abu Dhabi.
Yas Island
What to see: There was a time, not long ago, when Yas Island was just a giant sandy expanse, pocketed with the odd villa and a few shrubs. But ever since the 25sq k land mass was designated as the hub of Abu Dhabi’s F1 pretensions, there’s been a flurry of activity, and the island is rapidly being transformed into a thriving suburb centred around the Yas Marina Circuit racetrack. Okay, it’s still a bit barren in places, but it’s filling up with some stunning attractions, such as the adrenaline junkies’ favourite red dome, the Ferrari World theme park, as well as Yas Links, the Middle East’s only coastal golf course and, obviously, the racetrack itself, which has its own racing driver training academy and a go-kart track for the littl’uns. Meanwhile, attractions promised in the near future include the huge Yas Mall shopping centre and Warner Brothers-based theme park, and a giant water park. The days of being a dusty bowl of nothingness are long gone for Yas.
Where to stay: Yas Island has seven hotels of various quality, of which the stunning modernistic landmark The Yas Hotel (02 656 0000), with rooms starting from around Dhs800 for a double, is undoubtedly the preference for the jet-set. Yas Centro (02 656 4444) is also a reasonable stop-off for those on a more limited budget, with rooms starting at around Dhs550 for a double.
How to get there: Just hop in your own vehicle or hail a taxi and head up the Sheikh Khalifa Highway. It’s about 25 minutes’ drive from downtown Abu Dhabi.
Go exploring
There are numerous ways to discover Abu Dhabi’s islands. Here are a few of them…
Speedboats
If you’re tired of tour groups, and fancy sailing off into (relatively) uncharted waters independently, try chartering a speedboat. Belevari Marine lets you determine your own route, so you can choose whether to include Lulu, Bahrani or Futaisi islands on your adventure, as well as visit a little-known sand bank dubbed ‘Belevari Island’. This secret spot is submerged at high tide, and, because of the cleansing process of the seawater, has the cleanest, whitest sand in Abu Dhabi. You can hop off here or one of the other islands for a picnic or barbecue, and explore at your leisure. There is a wide selection of boats on offer to cater to different-sized parties, but for island hopping the company recommends you take out their smallest boat – the Seabreeze 26 speedboat. This takes up to six passengers (including the captain) and can be taken out for a minimum of two hours, although you’ll need longer than that to make the most of your trip. It’s the perfect size to beach on the shore of the islands and, if you’ve got kids along with you, you can attach an inflatable doughnut to the back and tow them behind. Dhows, sailboats and yachts in various sizes are also on offer.
Dhs600 per hour for the Seabreeze 26 (minimum two hours). Belevari Marine, www.belevari.com (050 661 2176).
Meanwhile, as well as organising trips to hook the Gulf’s marine life, Arabian Divers & Sportfishing Charters has a small fleet of speedboats that can be booked for outings to the islands, and can fit up to six passengers on board.
Dhs1,000 for two hours. Arabian Divers & Sportfishing Charters, Khor Al Bateen (050 614 6931).
Kayaking
Anyone looking for a slower paced, eco-friendly way to explore the tiny islands around the Eastern Mangroves area of the capital should try out Noukhada’s tours. Book your spot, and the adventure company will take you out on a three-hour kayaking trip, where you paddle out to the islands just off Abu Dhabi island. You’ll be able to investigate places only accessible by boat, check out the wildlife (purple sesarmine crabs and Arabian foxes) and learn from the experienced tour guides about the local ecosystem. These tours are the perfect choice for anyone who wants to get up close and personal with the surroundings, take in the scenery and explore at a pace where they won’t miss a thing.
Dhs250 per person, children under 11 in double kayak Dhs200, noukhada.ae (050 721 8928).
Jet skiing
Jet Skis are also the perfect way to explore some of the islands based nearer to the mainland. They’re fast, manoeuvrable and don’t require much training before you’re ready to speed through the ocean waves. Try Empros, which provides all the equipment and training you need, and if two people or more book they’ll even provide you with a guide for the journey.
Dhs280 per hour. InterContinental Abu Dhabi, Al Bateen, www.empros.ae (02 673 2200).
Wildlife watch
The Gulf waters are home to a whole host of marine life, with exotic fish, coral and turtles all just lying around waiting for you to gaze and point. Here are some exciting critters you might spot on your island-hopping travels.
Dolphins
With seven species of dolphin and eight species of whale recorded in UAE waters, if you don’t see something, quite frankly you’re just not paying enough attention. The bottlenose dolphin is probably your best bet, and, let’s face it, thanks to Flipper it’s the one we all really want to see anyway.
Sharks
The badass of the marine world is alive and well in Abu Dhabi’s waters, with at least 10 species out there for the spotting. The tiger shark is the most notorious inhabitant, however, it is also one of the rarest (but, let’s face it, do you really want to come face-to-face with one?), and you’re more likely to spot one of its smaller pals, such as the black-tipped reef shark.
Dugong
These lumbering creatures are as charming as they are hideously ugly. They are also, sadly, endangered. However, the UAE boasts one of the largest populations of dugong (second only to Australia) so keep our eyes open the next time you’re zipping past a mangrove and you might get lucky.
Flamingos
There is a whole host of marine birds such as herons, cormorants and gulls that are native to the area. However, the most exciting is undoubtedly the flamingo, and, as the pinkest of the world’s birds, it should also be one of the easiest to spot. Of course, if you do manage to miss them, Sir Bani Yas Island has a whole colony ready and waiting for you to gawp at.
Buying your vessel
While tour companies certainly offer a great service, the best way to experience the open waters is by taking the plunge and investing in a boat of your own. As you’d expect, there are various bureaucratic hoops to jump through before you’ll be allowed out on to the open waves, but follow these nifty pointers and you’ll be feeling the salt in your hair in next to no time.
First – fairly obviously – you’ll need to acquire your vessel. There are plenty of dealerships in the city, but most buyers choose to pick theirs up second hand from private advertisers (www.uaeboats4sale.com is a good starting point). Since there’s a massive shortage of berths in the city, keep an eye out for ads that include marina space, or make sure you’re able to secure some before paying up. Nautical newcomers are advised to recruit a professional to check the condition of their potential purchase before signing anything.
Then, inevitably, comes the paperwork. Make your way to the Department of Transport in Al Bateen to fill out the initial registration forms. Once processed, you’ll be summoned to the Coastguard’s office in Mina Port to have your boat inspected – make sure you’ve got an anchor, torch, first aid equipment, life jackets, flares (not the trousers) and navigation lights.
Assuming everything is in order, you’ll then be sent back to the DoT to pick up your year’s licence. But we’re not done yet. You’ll also have to hand over a deposit of Dhs7,000 to have a transponder device fitted to your boat by the Coastguard, so your motions can be tracked for security purposes.
So you’re ready to show the ocean who’s boss. Just make sure you’ve familiarised yourself with the rules of the water before heading out – you’d be amazed by how many ill-prepared enthusiasts end up performing a miniature impression of the Titanic before the ink on their licence has even dried. There’s no test or even a briefing for boat owners before they’re let loose with their new toys, so try to speak to someone with experience of the local waters. You’ll almost certainly run into trouble if you stray from the channels marked out by buoys, since much of the water surrounding the city is incredibly shallow.
