Rangoli is a type of Indian folk art in which patterns are created with coloured rice, flour or sand on a pavement. It’s apt, then, that Rangoli, an Indian restaurant on the ground floor of Yas Island Rotana, lifts its dimly lit rooms with flashes of colour. Decorative artwork depicting elephants and dancers greets you at the entrance, pink and orange tassels dangle from lampshades and zesty hues brighten up the cushions. The restaurant is lit by lanterns, while soothing sitar music and rhythmic drumming creates an air of romance, making Rangoli suitable for dates.
We take a non-smoking table next to the open kitchen and watch the chefs at work as they pummel bread for the tandoori oven and put the final touches to dishes from north and south India.
Soon after we’re seated, we’re given complimentary poppadoms flavoured with caraway seeds and a few spoonfuls of onion salad, as well as a shot of mint and lemon juice. We start with seafood broth, which has a coconut milk base and added prawns, calamari and cod. Our waiter lifts the lid on the soup bowl at the table with a theatrical flourish, revealing a dish that’s more of a thick soup than a broth. Creamy and smooth, it’s not spicy but it has a little warmth.
Our four tandoori prawns, marinated in a sumac, onion and tomato paste, are served on a bed of shredded onion and tomato, with pickled prawn paste, lime pickle and mint relish on the side. The prawns are a good size and have a chargrilled flavour, making them tasty on their own, without the condiments.
Vegetarians are well catered for and we note the regional specialities, which include Alleppey prawn curry with coconut, fennel seeds and curry leaves, and Goan lamb vindaloo with red chilli, vinegar, garlic and cloves. We’re tempted, but opt for amchuri bhindi – crispy fried okra with mango powder – because it sounds so unusual. We can’t taste the mango, but the dish, which is smoky and roughly chopped, is full of flavour. We also share stewed black lentils in a buttery tomato sauce.
We save on calories – sort of – by ordering the healthiest bread on the menu: tandoori unleavened wholemeal bread without butter. We also order basmati rice with caramelised onion, mint and saffron, although we can’t taste the saffron or mint.
Feeling full, we plan on skipping dessert before we spot the chai masala crème brûlée made with toasted milk, brioche biscotti and molten milk ice cream. Unfortunately, the ice cream and biscuit are tasteless. We persevere, and crack open the caramelised crust of the crème brûlée. A dense, chocolately pudding is underneath, the texture more like a truffle or heavy cheesecake. This too lacks flavour, so we give up.
Despite the hit-and-miss desserts, the few surprises on the menu liven it up and make Rangoli worth a second visit.
The bill (for two)
Seafood broth Dhs42
Tandoori prawns Dhs150
Dhal Dhs46
Okra Dhs58
Tandoori roti Dhs14
Chai brûlée Dhs32
Total (excluding service) Dhs342
