The ‘international’ tag invariably leads to disappointment. Like a rock ’n’ roller turning his hand to balladry, it’s rare that a chef can switch between the fineries of French cuisine and the minimalism of Japanese washoku without skipping a beat. With the exception of a few award-winning standouts, ‘international’ is shorthand for ‘buffet’, and that’s never going to bring a smile to any serious foody’s face. Afyä, however, has avoided the easy option and gone for a la carte. But how does it fare?
Our corner table sits beneath an abstract of an oyster, finished in orange, blue and brown. It bears the legend ‘Janice’, though it’s not clear if Janice was artist or subject. Either way, it’s an attempt at modern art and, as such, fits in with the general scheme of things. A particularly lurid shade of green dominates an otherwise brown interior, and the furniture and fittings suggest a retro, ’70s motif. It’s not unattractive, but it’s very similar to the hotel lobby – it quickly becomes obvious that Afyä is just the breakfast lounge in disguise.
The meal, however, begins with an extraordinary soup that takes the simple mushroom and makes it a Broadway star. ‘There’s No Business Like ’Shroom Business’. Who’d have thought that such a downtrodden fungi could taste so rich and fruity? Even now, writing this review in the back of a speeding Yaris, the aroma drifts back, and it’s worth taking a moment to savour the chemical memory. Back in the restaurant, however, our dining partner has been served an Arabian lentil soup that is nothing if not forgettable. We can only hope that whoever over-boiled this is having an off night, and that the mushroom genius is still waiting in the wings.
Obviously the genius is having a lie down, but the other guy is willing to raise his game. A Thai cashew nut and fish dish arrives for my partner, a thick hunk of grilled salmon for Time Out. The latter rests on a bed of mussels and greens, and the whole assembly is doused in a cheese sauce that is adequate if not exceptional. It’s a good cut of salmon, however – cooked lightly so that it flakes easily into the sauce, and the juices collude to create something a little more worthy. Our partner’s dish is an interesting item, too – the fish chunks come coated in a light cockney batter, helped on by a nutty sauce that tastes as though it may have originated in China. Thai? Questionable. International? Undoubtedly.
Ultimately, the meal is inexpensive and the service good. Traders Hotel, the restaurant’s happy home, has been designated a four-star property, and – mushroom show-stoppers aside – that suits Afyä down to the ground.
Bill (for two)
Arabic lentil soup Dhs30
Cream mushroom soup Dhs30
Thai cashew nut and fish Dhs60
Grilled salmon Dhs80
San Pellegrino Dhs26
Total including taxes Dhs266
