Saw a thick tree trunk in half, and the rings reveal its age.
At Market Kitchen, slice a knife through its comfort food to find an abundance of wisdom and experience despite the modern American restaurant setting down roots in Le Royal Méridien just over a year ago.
An olive tree, the central focal point twinkling below a bobbing crowd of gently lit flying saucers in Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s ‘hotel as home’ is symbolic; this is good food rotating around what is simple and naturally delicious.
The intimate courtyard atmosphere is intensified by the fire pit wall, mezzanine bar, private tasting room and romantic gantry overlooking the woven leather and tastefully printed linen furnishings. ‘New-vintage’ items such as shiny enamel food mixers and glass vessels line an interesting looking feature wall behind a dove grey sofa.
The staff deserve a special mention. The polite, personable and humorous team add to the feel that you’ve stepped into a relative’s cosy restaurant. Our waiter is very kind and knowledgeable, and goes out of his way to find us some newspapers to accompany our Saturday afternoon jaunt alone.
We start with a kumquat mocktail, presented as a bright tumbler of tangy and fizzy citrus fruit muddled with mint. The passion chilli soda and cucumber mint swizzle are also refreshing choices on the non-alcoholic drinks menu.
We are delighted by the original pairings of ingredients on the concise menu that is very easy and enjoyable to navigate. Unusually, there is a ‘simply raw’ option of oysters, tuna tartare with avocado, spicy radish and ginger dressings, oysters, assorted sashimi, crispy sushi and chipotle mayonnaise and beef steak tartare to start.
However, we are distracted by the plate of fresh watermelon and goat cheese, strewn with threads of salad, white cracked pepper and olive oil. In a simple dish like this, the quality of the ingredients has nowhere to hide, and the glossy olive oil and creamy goat’s cheese paired with crisp melon is mouth-wateringly good.
There are many different categories of main course available. There are only three choices of pizza, but they are loaded with sophisticated toppings. From beef carpaccio pizza with shaved mushroom, arugula and parmesan, to shrimp meatball pizza with arugula pesto, roasted peppers and parmesan. The third, black truffle and fortina pizza, is perfection.
Soups and salads jostle for competition. We linger over the creamy tomato soup with aged cheddar toast and basil and the beetroot salad with goat cheese and crystalised ginger.
But our attention is caught by Parmesan crusted chicken – a succulent piece of meat on the bone coated with crackly Parmesan cheese the colour of burnt sunrise. The chicken sits in a large pool of lemon butter sauce the tone of sun dappled wheat sheaves.
We can taste the freshly squeezed lemons, however, the translucent asparagus stems are tasteless soaked with too much sauce, and the sunshine mash melts into the buttery concoction without trace.
While dairy ingredients feature highly on the menu, there is also a delectable grilled salmon salad with carrot-ginger dressing and orange and sesame. Likewise, there is roasted hammour in Malaysian chilli sauce with baby corn and broccoli for a more health-conscious option.
The lack of pasta dishes – despite a fettucine pasta with lemon cream mushrooms and Parmesan – keeps the restaurant from tipping over into an Italian eatery. With more pizza and pasta options, and Market Kitchen’s love of olive oil and dairy, the restaurant points in Sicily’s direction.
We are impressed by the array of simply cooked, quality meat such as Scottish salmon and Australian rib eye that can be paired with a selection of exotic sauce, such as papaya mustard or black pepper jam.
Touches of innovation continue to pop up in the sides too, from ginger rice to the truffle macaroni and cheese – the foodie’s fad and comforting staple popping up on all ‘with it’ American-style menus.
We forgo dessert, but the menu is enticing. Market cheesecake with poached port figs and raspberry sorbet, and the salted caramel ice cream sundae with peanuts are inspired creations befitting of an entirely wonderful menu.
The bill (for one)
Watermelon goat cheese Dhs35
Parmesan chicken Dhs95
Mashed potato Dhs30
Kumquat muddle mocktail Dhs30
Total (excl. service) Dhs190
